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In The Pit at Gateway Rock Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
hand crack
granite
desert
single pitch
trad
jamming
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
In The Pit
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"In The Pit invites climbers into a hand crack carved deep into Gateway Rock’s northern face. This 40-foot trad line blends technical jamming with a distinctive desert setting, perfect for those honing their crack climbing in Joshua Tree’s stark granite landscape."

In The Pit at Gateway Rock Joshua Tree

In The Pit offers climbers a compelling introduction to the gnarly hand crack climbs of Joshua Tree National Park, tucked into the rugged contours of Gateway Rock’s northern face. This single-pitch, 40-foot route threads itself through a dramatic natural cleft resembling a pit or small gully, immediately placing you inside a raw, tactile landscape where stone and body connect in an intimate struggle. Starting just left of the well-known Semi Tough and Pit Bull Attack routes, In The Pit demands focused jamming technique as your hands seek purchase in a well-cleaned crack just wide enough to challenge your skills. The air here feels tight, almost still, while the surrounding rock absorbs the desert sun, hinting at the warmth beneath your palms.

Approaching the climb involves navigating a short descent into a sharply carved crevice, lending a sense of entering an ancient natural chamber. The rock offers solid grip, but the hand crack requires steady protection placements, with gear sizing up to 2.5 inches necessary to confidently shield your ascent. The granite’s rough texture invites friction, rewarding climbers who trust their technique and patience.

Situated in a less-traveled segment of Gateway Rock, this route balances desert solitude with the clear presence of the park’s unique granite formations. Views from the base reveal sparse vegetation and sun-soaked boulders, while the climb itself engages you in a tactile dialogue with the rock, demanding attention to every hand jam and foot smear.

Though rated a 5.10a, In The Pit’s rating feels honest: approachable yet pushing the limits for trad climbers comfortable in crack climbing. It’s a perfect step up for those looking to refine their crack skills in a setting that feels rugged without being remote.

Planning your trip here means arriving early to avoid the heat, especially in summer when the sun intensifies on these southern California walls. Footwear with sticky rubber and a solid approach shoe for uneven terrain will serve you well. Carry sunscreen, plenty of water, and a rack that covers wide crack sizes, as opportunities for well-placed gear are integral to a confident ascent.

This route’s unique setting within Joshua Tree National Park offers a blend of desert exposure and rock challenge, making it a rewarding line for climbers seeking focused technical climbing with a dose of natural ambiance. From the approach to the careful placements and the satisfying jam sequences, In The Pit stands as a concise but memorable test of trad skills in a dynamic environment.

Climber Safety

The route starts in a tight gully with limited room for maneuver; be cautious during the initial descent to avoid slips. The crack demands solid gear placements—careful attention to protection is vital to avoid runouts on this isolated wall.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid high afternoon heat, particularly in summer months.

Use sticky rubber shoes with good edging for footholds on the granite.

Approach involves a short steep descent into a rock pit; watch footing.

Pack plenty of water and sunscreen; desert conditions can dehydrate quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, In The Pit provides a solid challenge focused on hand crack technique. While some might find the grade approachable, the crux involves sustained jams requiring patience and precise gear placement. It matches well with other moderate Joshua Tree crack climbs, though it leans more on the technical side than sheer endurance.

Gear Requirements

Bring protection ranging up to 2.5 inches to ensure secure gear placements inside the hand crack. The granite allows for solid jams, but proper sizing and confidence in placing cams is essential.

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Tags

hand crack
granite
desert
single pitch
trad
jamming