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In Focus at Tangen Towers

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
exposed rappel
single pitch
small cams
boulder route vicinity
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
In Focus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"In Focus offers a compelling, lesser-known trad climb on Tangen Towers’ southern face, with demanding finger cracks and a gritty vibe that rewards preparation. This route invites climbers to experience the Flatirons away from crowds, blending technical jams with a striking summit ramp."

In Focus at Tangen Towers

In the shadow of Boulder’s iconic Flatirons, the In Focus route on Tangen Towers offers an unpolished but rewarding adventure that beckons trad climbers eager to explore a quieter path. This single-pitch, 110-foot climb presents a rugged crack system that has seen few hands, preserving a sense of raw territory where each jam feels earned. The approach meanders west around the southern base of the tower, passing familiar features that hint at busier routes nearby, yet In Focus quickly steps off the beaten track. Climbers begin between two narrow cracks, navigating a challenging series of bouldery moves to gain the left crack—a thin, shallow line that tests finger and hand jams. The crack’s texture, marked by rough stone, demands precise protection placements with a rack focused on smaller sizes, a detail that rewards prepared climbers with a steady progression.

As the route ascends, the climber arrives at a sloping ramp cresting near the ridge line. This section, while less technical, still calls for careful footwork and situational awareness. Turning left along the ramp leads to an easier headwall and the route’s summit. Exposure builds on the final moves, emphasizing control and calm in equal measure. The descent requires a short, exposed rappel westward from threaded slings—simple but not without its own demands. In Focus is an ideal choice for those ready to explore a seldom-traveled corner of the Flatirons with a practical mindset: anticipate rough edges, bring precise gear, and savor the feeling of quiet discovery beneath Colorado’s broad sky.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the initial moves—they involve some loose rock and limited holds. The exposed rappel descent requires confidence in anchors and rope management, as the drop is short but unforgiving. Check gear condition on fixed slings before trusting them.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the Boulder side, walking west around the south base of Tangen Towers.

Bring a rack heavy on small cams (finger and hand sizes) for reliable protection.

Watch for loose rock near the initial bouldery moves; test each hold before committing.

Plan descent by bringing a rappel device and a 60-meter rope for the exposed westward rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating covers a mix of technical crack climbing and physical bouldery moves at the start. While the grade feels accurate, the rough texture and protecting the thin fingers crack can push the challenge slightly higher for climbers unfamiliar with spotty jams. Compared to other Flatirons climbs, In Focus offers a more secluded and less polished experience, lending it a unique character within the 5.9 slab and crack range.

Gear Requirements

Expect to rely on a standard Flatiron trad rack prioritizing finger and hand-sized cams. Small gear is essential for secure placements in the thin crack system, as the crack readily accepts protection but offers limited resting spots.

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Tags

finger crack
exposed rappel
single pitch
small cams
boulder route vicinity