"In And Out is a compelling offwidth climb on Split Dome’s granite face that challenges climbers with sustained crack work and a clever escape onto a neighboring route. It promises both physical rigor and tactical decisions in the heart of Joshua Tree National Park."
In And Out at Split Dome presents a gritty test of offwidth technique on a single pitch that commands commitment and ingenuity. Situated within Joshua Tree National Park’s rugged North Rock sector, this route unfolds over 70 feet of stark granite that dares you into a measured dance with the rock’s wider crack formations. The climb’s distinct personality emerges from its contrived line—a sustained offwidth that pushes the limits of hand and body jams but offers an unexpected tactical escape. Skilled climbers know they can bypass much of the most grueling work by stemming out onto the adjacent line of Big Boy, a clever option that adds strategy to this climb’s physicality.
The approach to Split Dome is a straightforward yet scenic trek, descending into open desert air and scattered pinyon pines that frame the granite face. Joshua Tree’s high desert landscape lends quiet focus, empowering climbers to engage fully with the route’s unique challenges. Protection on In And Out leans on traditional offwidth gear—think larger cams that fill the deep crack securely, ensuring confidence during technically demanding moves. While the crux demands steady composure, the climb rewards persistence with a satisfying send on classic Joshua Tree stone.
The route’s location at North Rock positions it comfortably away from the busiest trails, providing a quieter space for concentration and connection to the rock. With only one pitch, the climb fits well into a half-day agenda, leaving ample time to explore neighboring classics or savor the park’s famed sunset vistas. For those preparing to take on this route, robust footwear capable of edging and smearing, plus hydration carefully planned for warm desert conditions, are vital. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon also helps avoid the strongest sun and heat typical of midday Joshua Tree.
In And Out challenges the climber’s offwidth skills while offering a subtle nod to route-finding savvy, making it a memorable experience for those ready to wrestle with broad cracks in a demanding but approachable setting. Its combination of technical requirement and tactical choice adds depth to an afternoon in one of California’s premier climbing parks.
Offwidth cracks often conceal awkward jams and require precise gear placements; climbers should double-check all pro placements and be mindful that loose or sandy rock can add risk. Due to the desert setting, heat exposure and dehydration remain critical concerns—plan accordingly and avoid midday climbs during peak summer.
Consider starting early to avoid the desert heat that intensifies after midday.
Wear shoes with stiff soles to help with edging on less featured granite beneath the crack.
Hydrate thoroughly before and during the climb to compensate for dry conditions.
Scout the adjacent route Big Boy beforehand if you plan to stem out to reduce the difficulty.
Bring a solid rack focused on offwidth protection; large cams are essential to comfortably secure placements in the wider crack sections. Traditional gear is required, as fixed protection is minimal.
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