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Immortal Technique by Ken

San Luis Obispo, California United States
crack climb
trad
runout
balance moves
single pitch
Sierra style
bolt protected
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Immortal Technique by Ken
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Immortal Technique by Ken offers a longer crack climb on Bishop Peak with a compelling mix of slab movement and technical balance. Perfect for trad climbers looking to test their gear skills and enjoy a quiet route rich with Sierra-style features."

Immortal Technique by Ken

Immortal Technique by Ken stands out among Bishop Peak’s climbs for its uncommon length and unique crack system. This single-pitch trad route stretches 80 feet, offering a distinctive challenge that blends steady slab climbing with technical crack moves, evoking a Sierra foothills vibe rather than the typical Bishop Peak style. The climb begins with a clean splitter corner rising up a slab for roughly 45 feet at a moderate 5.7 difficulty. Here, the rock feels solid and the crack spacious enough to accommodate a range of gear, making for smooth, confident climbing.

Midway, the route veers left toward a fixed bolt that signals the transition into more delicate balance moves along a series of horn-like formations. These features demand precise foot placements and subtle weight shifts, pushing the difficulty to 5.8 R. Although the protection here is scarce, the bolt provides a critical psychological anchor. Beyond this, the climb becomes more exploratory; the exit is guarded by mostly thin cracks and less obvious gear placements. Climbers should be prepared for some creative pro work, as the last section rates around 5.6 but offers few reliable protection options.

Set in the Good Times on Planet Earth area near San Luis Obispo, this route exposes climbers to sweeping views of the Central Coast and the rugged landscape around Bishop Peak. The climb’s position on the wall means it catches morning light but moves into shade by afternoon, providing a pleasant temperature balance during warmer months. Getting here requires a short hike on a well-maintained trail cutting through open chaparral and sagebrush, tipping the scales at approximately a 15-minute approach.

Gear-wise, bring a wide range of cams, up to a #4 for the larger cracks, plus nuts and an extra bolt plate or quickdraw for the fixed bolt. The rock quality is generally reliable, but expect some less-trusted gear in the upper section near the horns. This route challenges your ability to read the rock and trust your placements while rewarding you with a sustained crack experience unlike anything else nearby.

For climbers drawn to moderate trad routes that emphasize crack technique and balance, Immortal Technique delivers a straightforward yet memorable outing. It’s suited for those comfortable with runout sections and ready to manage gear carefully. The dulcet cloudless skies overhead and the gentle coastal breeze add a sensory dimension that keeps the climb feeling alive and engaged from start to finish.

Climber Safety

Expect limited protection above the bolt, making precise gear placements essential. The slab section demands solid footwork to avoid slips, and the upper horn sequences can be unforgiving without good balance. Avoid climbing when wet, as the slab becomes dangerously slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy direct sunlight on the climb.

Check and double-check gear placements above the bolt; pro can be sparse and tricky.

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging capability to handle slab balance moves.

Carry extra webbing or runners to extend gear placements and reduce rope drag.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating reflects a climb that’s mostly moderate but carries runout sections, especially after the bolt where protection thins out. While the slab starts easier at 5.7, the balance and subtle footwork on horns push the difficulty and mental challenge. Compared to other Bishop Peak cracks, this feels like a step toward the more exposed, gear-sparse style found in the Sierra Nevada, requiring confidence and careful pro placement.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack emphasizing larger cams up to a #4. You'll need gear capable of protecting wide cracks, along with nuts and at least one quickdraw for the single bolt placed mid-route. The crack sections are straightforward but protection options tighten near the upper horn features.

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Tags

crack climb
trad
runout
balance moves
single pitch
Sierra style
bolt protected