5.5, Trad
Moncton
Canada
"I'm Too Drunk For This delivers a solid single-pitch trad climb at Moe Wall with straightforward crack systems and good gear. It blends relaxed climbing with just enough run-out to keep your focus sharp, perfect for those seeking a brief but satisfying trad experience on McQuirks Mountain."
Rising sharply from the rugged face of Moe Wall, the route known as I'm Too Drunk For This invites climbers into a straightforward yet engaging trad experience rooted in the wild beauty of McQuirks Mountain, New Brunswick. The climb unfolds across a single pitch of approximately 100 feet that threads through a sequence of welcoming cracks and solid jugs, offering both tactile hands and secure footholds that feel assured beneath your fingers. The granite here is trustworthy, while the line arches upward to a modest ledge equipped with a two-bolt anchor, a welcome haven after the effort. Beyond the anchor, seasoned climbers looking to extend the day can link into After Midnight just overhead or opt for a convenient rappel.
The landscape around Moe Wall hums with the quiet character of a northern forest poised between rivers and slopes. The climb's exposure is tempered by the calm presence of surrounding trees and the gentle dapple of sunlight that filters down even on overcast days. Although the route maintains a friendly grade of 5.5, subtle run-outs punctuate some very simple climbing, lending a cautious edge to what might otherwise feel too easy. Protection placements are generally solid, with gear up to 3 inches fitting snugly, but climbers should remain alert—one or two sections demand attention to keep the margin of safety intact, which is why some consider this route slightly PG-rated despite its moderate moves.
The approach to Moe Wall tracks through well-trodden forest paths that thread their way toward the cliff’s base, taking about 30 minutes from a nearby parking spot at McQuirks Mountain trailhead. The terrain is steady underfoot, marked by mossy stones and occasional roots, offering a quiet prelude to the rock’s commanding presence. On clear days, light breezes carry the scent of pine and damp earth, while the rustle of leaves and distant birdcalls create a living soundscape around you. Timing your climb in the morning or late afternoon is ideal, as the wall faces east, bathing in warm sun early in the day and slipping into cooling shade as afternoon advances.
In terms of gear, a standard rack extending to 3-inch cams covers all the protection needs here, relying on nature’s cracks and fissures to cradle your placements securely. The bolts at the top provide peace of mind for the anchor, making the final angling of the pitch straightforward and safe. Descending is equally manageable by rap; the fixed two-bolt anchor with dollies allows for a confident retreat. Consider wearing sturdy approach shoes and bring along plenty of water—the forest’s subtle exertion paired with the climb’s moderate challenge can catch unprepared climbers off guard.
I'm Too Drunk For This strikes a balance between inviting trad climbing and a touch of adventure that keeps you honest. It’s perfect for those refining their gear skills or simply looking to savor a peaceful day on excellent rock without the complexity of multi-pitch logistics. The route invites a thoughtful pace, encouraging climbers to engage with the rock’s friendly contours while respecting its occasional slackening of protection. Whether you’re passing through New Brunswick or calling this corner of Canada a home base, this climb offers a measured taste of the wild, grounded in practical readiness and quiet, natural beauty.
While mostly well protected, some sections feature slight run-outs on easier terrain that could leave climbers exposed to falls over ledges or flat ground. The rock is solid but double-check placements, especially in cracks that feel less uniform. Rappel only from the fixed two-bolt anchor to avoid risky downclimbing.
Approach trail is moderate; sturdy footwear advised to handle mossy roots and rocks.
Climb in morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh mid-day sun on the east-facing wall.
Hydrate well before climbing; forest humidity can be deceptively draining.
Use the bolted anchor for a safe rappel; avoid downclimbing the route.
Standard rack up to 3 inches cams recommended. Bolted rap anchor at the top secures descent. Protection placements are mostly solid with some run-outs over easier terrain, so stay attentive.
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