"Set against the stark terrain of Napoleon Wall, this concise 5.9 sport climb challenges you with a high first bolt and a crux move off a striking right-facing edge. It’s a perfect blend of technical climbing and solid protection, ideal for those ready to test finger strength in a quiet alpine setting."
Carved into the rugged expanse of Napoleon Wall, “I’m Just A Lump Of Coal But…” offers climbers a concise but satisfying challenge that demands focus and finesse. Beginning from the familiar belay ledge shared with Reaping Havoc, the route eases you into motion with a stretch of approachable climbing that trends upward and slightly right over mellow rock. This opening section highlights the texture of the wall—a textured canvas of rough granite that undercuts your hands and rewards steady footwork. As you ascend, the bolts climb steeply into view, with the first residing unusually high, setting the tone for the effort that follows.
The route’s spine is a testament to subtle difficulty, trading brute force for precise movement. After reaching that first high clip, you traverse right on low-angle terrain whose rhythm invites a steady breathing pattern and deliberate shifts. The final pitch shifts into vertical territory, demanding strength and technique as you crank a demanding move off a right-facing edge. This effortful maneuver tests your finger strength and body tension, pushing you into full engagement with the rock. Landing on a small ledge beneath the chains feels like a well-earned reprieve, a moment to catch breath and savor the clarity of the view.
Gear management is straightforward here, secured with five bolts leading to a pair of chains at the top anchor. The protection is generous where it counts, especially around the crux move, offering reassurance even as the high first bolt requires an initial powered clip. Weather-wise, the route benefits from afternoon sun that warms the granite, making it an excellent choice for a late morning start through early afternoon. The surrounding Gilman Canyon embraces you with a dry, alpine air and distant vistas of the Colorado Rockies, lending an open, airy feeling uncommon for single-pitch climbs.
As a 5.9 sport climb, this route bridges technical accessibility and athletic challenge. For those accustomed to the local grades, it carries a slightly stiff crux off the right edges but overall feels fair with solid protection. The area sees moderate traffic, and with eight votes averaging 2.5 stars, it offers a straightforward experience that’s ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their technique on one of the quieter walls near Eagle and Minturn.
Before your ascent, make sure your shoes have precise edging capability and consider a chalk bag with easy access. The approach from the parking area to the base is brief but rocky—solid hiking footwear and attention to trail markings will keep you on track. Carry plenty of water, as the dry mountain air can accelerate dehydration even at moderate elevations. Whether you’re polishing your sport climbing skills or seeking a new route to add to your Colorado logbook, “I’m Just A Lump Of Coal But…” delivers a compact, engaging climb framed by clear blue skies and a refreshing alpine setting.
Take care on the initial bolt clip due to its height, and be mindful of the small ledge at the top which offers limited rest space. The approach has loose rock sections, so stay attentive to footing as you hike in.
Start early to avoid the afternoon heat; afternoon sun hits the wall but mornings remain cooler.
Wear precise edging climbing shoes to manage the low-angle climbs and crux moves.
Stay hydrated—altitude and dry air can sneak up on you quickly.
The approach trail is rocky; sturdy hiking shoes will make the short hike more comfortable.
Five bolts and chains secure the route, with the protection well placed to guard the crux move despite the first bolt being set higher than usual. Bring typical sport rack gear and be prepared to clip powerfully off the initial bolt.
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