"A gritty 40-foot trad crack perched on the artificial walls of San Luis Obispo’s Little Gotham, this route challenges climbers with tight placements and a subtle aid crux. Ideal for trad climbers looking for a focused, technical pitch with easy access and urban-edge character."
On the rugged artificial walls of San Luis Obispo’s Little Gotham lies a unique crack climb that beckons trad climbers seeking a straightforward yet engaging challenge. If the Cops Come Hide the Camera offers a single pitch of 40 feet, presenting a gritty encounter with a narrow crack system that rewards precise hand and finger jams. The climb sits as the second crack to the left of an unmistakable tunnel, inviting climbers to engage directly with the rock’s textured surface, where small but secure placements demand a keen eye and steady fingers.
This route blends traditional climbing with a hint of aid, rated 5.8 C0, making it approachable for those comfortable with basic aid techniques. The protection calls for cams ranging from .3 to .75 inches, ideal for those who like to carry a versatile rack for variable crack widths. The wall is man-made yet maintains a raw authenticity that feels crafted by time and effort rather than nature, offering a distinct contrast to the surrounding natural rock. Climbers will appreciate the quiet hum of the Central Coast winds and the occasional call of distant seabirds, embedding a subtle connection to the wild despite the urban backdrop.
Accessing the route is straightforward, with Little Gotham on the Central Coast providing a convenient base. The climb’s 40-foot length makes it a perfect candidate for a focused morning session or a warm-up on your way to longer objectives. The face is primarily shaded in the early hours, aiding those climbing in warmer seasons to avoid overheating, while afternoon sun can lend warmth during the chill of winter months.
For gear, this climb demands attention to small cam placements and a comfortable harness setup to accommodate some hauling if you decide to engage the aid sections. The protection sequence encourages mindfulness of gear placement quality, rewarding well-placed cams with a sense of security that lets you move fluidly along the crack. The route’s moderate rating feels fair, with no artificially inflated difficulty but a distinct crux that slightly intensifies the effort mid-pitch.
When you finish, carefully downclimb or rappel the same line—an easy descent that calls for cautious footing given the narrow features. Watch for loose rock at the base and keep a close eye on your gear during descent to avoid snagged cams or dangling slings. Local climbers appreciate this route for its blend of traditional crack climbing and the unusual charm of an urban wall, embodying a gritty spirit with practical demands.
If the Cops Come Hide the Camera offers an accessible taste of crack climbing in California’s central coast, perfect for climbers sharpening their trad skills or exploring the fusion of natural technique on an artificial face. It’s a slice of climbing that rewards focus, careful placement, and a readiness to embrace the unique challenges of this city-adjacent terrain.
The artificial wall holds solid rock but beware of loose debris near the base and watch your gear placements carefully in the tighter sections to prevent slippage during aid moves. Avoid climbing during wet conditions as the crack can retain moisture.
Approach early morning for shade on the face during summer months.
Focus on meticulous cam placements in the narrower crack sections.
Prepare for a modest aid crux—basic technical aid skills are beneficial.
Double-check your rappel anchor before descent; the rock can collect debris.
Bring a set of cams from .3 to .75 inches to protect varying crack widths. A standard trad rack with emphasis on small cams will keep placements secure. Harness and slings recommended for aid sections and rappelling.
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