"Icy Fingers challenges climbers with a sustained, wide crack that balances steady jams and chimney moves along a single 85-foot pitch. This approachable yet engaging trad climb provides solid stances and straightforward protection in the heart of Cracked Canyon’s rugged terrain."
Icy Fingers offers a crisp introduction to traditional crack climbing amid the rugged backdrop of Cracked Canyon near Ophir, Colorado. This single-pitch climb stretches 85 feet along a distinct wide crack that demands steady footwork and the occasional chimney maneuver to ascend smoothly. The rock, textured with subtle edges and pockets, invites climbers to engage with the natural rhythm of the line—balancing jammed fists and feet against sections that open into wider chimney-like moves. Though it carries a moderate 5.8 rating, the route stays consistently engaging, rewarding climbers with solid stances for rests and secure placements throughout. Protection relies primarily on a single rack of cams, with a #4 C4 cam providing crucial coverage for the widest sections of the crack. Skills in traditional gear placement will ensure a confident ascent without surprises.
Approaching Icy Fingers, the terrain is typical of the Telluride/Norwood climbing environs—rock-strewn slopes giving way to clean vertical faces carved by millennia of geological forces. Climbers will find themselves frequently adjusting gear and stance as the crack widens and narrows, negotiating the subtle shifts in the rock’s personality. This climb is more than just a physical challenge; it’s an exercise in reading the rock and moving deliberately, with each hand and foot hold inviting a mindful moment. The route’s history is marked by some confusion—though commonly listed as "Limey Peel" in past guides, local expertise clarifies this as the true "Icy Fingers" climb, highlighting the evolving knowledge held by those who call these mountains home.
For those planning their visit, preparation is straightforward but essential. Bring the right gear to match the crack's width, including a robust #4 cam, and be prepared for moderate exposure to the elements common in mid-elevation Colorado canyons. Hydration is key—carry enough water for the day, as shade is limited on the wall. Early morning climbs are advisable to avoid the afternoon sun, especially during warmer months. The approach from Ophir involves a manageable hike over mixed terrain, a refreshing walk that offers glimpses of pine-studded slopes and distant peaks. Post-climb, a straightforward downclimb or scramble returns you to basecamp.
Icy Fingers is a balanced trad route that blends accessible technique with genuine outdoor character, making it an ideal option for climbers looking to refine crack skills in a classic Colorado setting. Whether you’re coming for the steady movement or the sense of engagement with the rock, this climb offers both practicality and connection—a slice of sharp mountain climbing that rewards preparation and attention with every upward step.
The rock is generally solid but expect occasional flakes near the wider chimney sections; place gear thoughtfully. The approach involves uneven terrain that can be slippery when wet, so exercise caution returning, especially after rain or snowmelt.
Start early to climb in cooler morning temperatures and avoid afternoon heat.
Bring a robust #4 cam to protect the widest crack sections safely.
Hydrate well—water is scarce near the climb, and shade is limited on the wall.
Prepare for a straightforward but rocky approach from Ophir; sturdy hiking shoes are advised.
A single rack of cams suffices, with a #4 C4 cam recommended for the wider sections. Protection placements can be found both within the crack and on adjacent faces, emphasizing versatile gear skills.
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