"Ice Nine presents a firm 80-foot trad challenge on Lake Tahoe’s Ninety Foot Wall, blending technical crack climbing with a dynamic roof traverse. Perfect for intermediate climbers eager to test gear skills and technique in a scenic canyon setting."
Ice Nine offers a focused taste of Lake Tahoe's steep granite, perched on the right flank of the Ninety Foot Wall in Eagle Creek Canyon. From the base, you’ll spot a commanding right-facing dihedral tucked beneath a striking roof about 30 feet up—a natural invitation to climbers ready for a technical challenge. The climb begins just left of a large cedar, sharing its start with the nearby Lightning Bolt route, but Ice Nine veers off by tracing a diagonal crack that skirts right around the roof’s lip. This movement is the crux, requiring precise footwork and confident hand jams to navigate the subtle overhang. Once past the roof, the route gently swings left, offering a brief respite before cutting right again toward the top anchors.
This single-pitch climb rises approximately 80 feet, demanding clean technique more than brute strength. The granite here feels solid, though protection placements require a keen eye—typically, Ice Nine is top-roped by visiting parties, but a standard rack of cams can allow for a confident lead attempt. Bringing larger cams and a long sling is wise since the fixed bolts that secure the top anchor are shared with surrounding routes.
Set against the backdrop of Lake Tahoe’s west shore, the area enjoys clear skies and dappled shade throughout much of the day, particularly in the morning. Approaching the wall involves a short hike into Eagle Creek Canyon, where the scents of pine and fresh mountain air sharpen your senses. The climb’s moderate length and moderate rating of 5.10a make Ice Nine suitable for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen trad skills in a peaceful but energized setting.
Always pay attention to the rock around the roof and dihedral; though generally stable, some zones demand caution with gear placement and body positioning. After topping out, the descent is straightforward via the established anchors—perfect for lowering down or rappelling if conditions require.
Ice Nine’s charm is in its manageable length combined with a crux that calls for both mental focus and effective gear use. For anyone familiar with Lake Tahoe’s granite climbs, this route offers a solid test without the overwhelming commitment seen on longer walls nearby, making it an excellent choice for a focused session testing crack climbing, roof negotiation, and anchor management.
Watch placements near the roof carefully—while the granite is generally solid, some gear spots require deliberate placement to ensure protection. Also, the top anchors are shared and can be tight, so bring adequate slings and be cautious of rope drag when lowering.
Start just left of the big cedar near the Lightning Bolt route
Bring a rack with larger cams for secure placements past the roof
Plan your climb for morning light to avoid intense heat on the wall
Use a long sling on the top anchors to reduce rope drag
Generally top-roped, Ice Nine can be led with a standard set of cams. Large cams and a long sling are recommended for backing up the top anchors shared with neighboring climbs.
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