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Ice House Roof: Three-Pitch Sport Climb on Crystal Wall’s Iconic Arch

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
white water streak
roof crux
bolted anchors
multi-pitch
granite
technical
reachy moves
easy walk-off
Length: 450 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Ice House Roof
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ice House Roof offers a vigorous three-pitch sport climb carved into Crystal Wall’s grand arch. Featuring sustained 5.8 climbing linked by a challenging 5.9 roof crux, this route combines technical moves with graceful lines over clean granite."

Ice House Roof: Three-Pitch Sport Climb on Crystal Wall’s Iconic Arch

Ice House Roof stands out as an engaging three-pitch sport climb etched into the slick granite of Crystal Wall’s striking arch formation. Located within the expansive HighWay 50 Corridor near Lake Tahoe, California, this route offers an absorbing blend of steady, technical movement and bold roof climbing that tests both precise footwork and reach. Starting on the first pitch, climbers move through crisp 5.8 crimpy rock that clings to broad white water streaks flowing up to the corner of a towering arch. The granite steeps with a clean, textured surface beneath your fingertips as bolts guide steady progress past a prominent corner and past the arch’s edge.

Pitch two offers a short breather with a one-bolt 5.5 traverse that narrows along the white water streak leading to the base of the defining roof. Here, the route’s character shifts noticeably, preparing you to confront more demanding moves on pitch three. The third pitch’s crux revolves around a wide-reaching 5.9 move pulling through the heart of the roof feature. This section demands not only strength but also technique, especially if your reach falls under 5’8", where the moves edge toward 5.10 difficulty. Bolts protect the delicate moves over the roof, but for those keen to avoid the crux, a rightward traverse below the roof—rated 5.5R with some runout—offers a safer, less intense alternative before reconnecting with easier climbing past bolts up to the anchor. All belay stations are conveniently equipped with rings, supporting both rappelling with two ropes or a simple walk-off descent.

This climb’s granite surfaces tell a tangible story: the water streaks you follow seem etched by persistent flow, almost daring you forward as you work up the rock. The arch itself commands attention, a vast natural feature that gives the wall its distinct personality and puts the roof on full display with a mix of shadow and sun throughout the day. Approaching Ice House Roof, you’ll find yourself in a landscape marked by rugged granite outcrops and open skies, a perfect backdrop for a day of focused climbing without distractions. Fine footwear with reliable edging capability is key here, alongside attention to hydration given the route’s exposed pitches and granite’s heat absorption.

Timing your ascent to avoid the hottest afternoon sun will pay off—early to mid-morning climbs benefit from cooler rock and longer shadow coverage on the roof feature. The approach involves a straightforward trail leading to the base of Crystal Wall, with clear markings and moderate terrain, usually taking around 15 to 20 minutes from parking. Given all bolts and solid anchors, you’ll find the route well-protected, but expect some challenging placements if choosing to bypass the roof’s direct moves. The overall route length of 450 feet is well balanced across its three pitches, providing a rhythm to the climb that keeps momentum and focus sharp.

Ice House Roof suits climbers looking for a solid, well-equipped route that tests precision and power while rewarding with sweeping views from the upper faces. It’s a route where nature’s raw angle meets climbing craft and where each pitch reveals more of the wall’s granite story. Whether you aim to push the roof directly or opt for the easier dynamics of the bypass, preparation is key: bring enough rope, expect some dynamic moves, and approach with a mindset ready to engage with the unique challenges of a granite arch route in the Sierra Nevada.

Climber Safety

While all bolts are reliable and belays sport rings, the roof crux involves exposed moves that demand focus and careful clipping. The bypass traverse to avoid the roof is rated 5.5R, so proceed with caution there due to runout before reconnecting to protected terrain. The approach is moderate but keep watch for loose debris near the base.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length450 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler rock and extended shade on the roof pitch.

Climbers under 5’8" should consider the right-side bypass to avoid challenging reaches.

Bring shoes with sensitive edging for the crimpy 5.8 sections.

Stay hydrated—exposed granite absorbs heat even on cooler days.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating reflects a solid crux on the final pitch’s roof sequence, which tightens moves and tests reach. The first pitch’s consistent 5.8 climbing feels true to grade with technical finger work on steep granite. Shorter climbers may find the crux edging toward 5.10 due to the reach required, but the bypass option softens the overall difficulty to a straightforward 5.8 route.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted sport route with rings at each belay station. Recommended to carry two ropes for rappelling or plan a walk-off descent. Expect tight clipping on the roof crux, accessible protection throughout the pitch sequence.

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Tags

white water streak
roof crux
bolted anchors
multi-pitch
granite
technical
reachy moves
easy walk-off