"A standout moderate trad climb at Pigeon Cliff, this 60-foot pitch tests stemming skills in a double crack system ending at a small bulge. Reliable protection and straightforward access make it a must for trad climbers exploring Northeast California."
I Thought This Was No Hands offers climbers an accessible yet engaging pitch on the West Wall of Pigeon Cliff, located in Northeast California's rugged high desert. This single-pitch trad climb stretches roughly 60 feet through a striking double crack system that rewards steady technique and good gear placement. The route stands out as one of the best moderate trad climbs in the area, combining physical movement with thoughtful protection. From the moment you step onto the face, cool stemming moves require you to negotiate opposing cracks, creating an intimate conversation with the rock as you converge toward a distinct bulge near the top. The granite here feels solid underfoot, with enough texture to maintain confident footwork even as you navigate the bulge’s challenge.
This climb demands attention to gear, as protection runs comfortably up to 4 inches. Experienced trad climbers will appreciate the balance between moderate difficulty and solid placements, allowing them to focus on movement and flow. The route's location on the West Wall means afternoon sun warms the rock, but early morning shade can offer welcome relief during warmer months.
Accessing the climb involves a straightforward approach from the base of Pigeon Cliff, with well-established trails that wind through sparse high desert vegetation and patches of sagebrush. The trail is generally easy to follow and requires about 15 to 20 minutes from the parking area, making it an excellent option for climbers wanting quality rock without a long haul. GPS coordinates put you close to latitude 40.42155 and longitude -120.67468, serving as a reliable waypoint when planning your venture.
Safety relies heavily on careful gear placement and attentiveness to the bulge near the anchor. While the granite is generally reliable, some sections can feel a bit polished, increasing the need for precise footwork and deliberate clipping. Given the single pitch length and available rally points, climbers should prepare for a straightforward descent: rappling from established anchors that are well-suited for a smooth return to the base.
Beyond the climb itself, Pigeon Cliff boasts sweeping views of the surrounding Northeastern California landscape, where dry, open air carries the heat of distant sunscapes. The area is remote enough to offer solitude without risking isolation, striking an ideal balance for moderate trad routes. For anyone preparing to tackle this climb, a water supply is essential, as the high-desert environment quickly dries you out, especially when working the sustained stemming moves. Footwear with good edging capability will help you manage the varied crack widths, and timing your climb for cooler parts of the day ensures stamina for the more challenging bulge near the top.
In sum, I Thought This Was No Hands is a practical but rewarding choice for trad climbers seeking moderate difficulty matched with confident protection and quality movement. It’s a route that invites you to read the rock and respond with precision, perfect for climbers wanting to sharpen their crack technique while enjoying a wild corner of California’s climbing landscape.
Watch for polished rock near the bulge which can reduce friction. Ensure careful gear placement in the double cracks, especially as protection tapers toward the top. Always double-check fixed rap anchors before descent.
Approach via well-marked trail from parking; expect 15-20 minute walk.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed West Wall.
Carry at least 2 liters of water due to arid conditions.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes with good edging for crack work.
Bring a standard trad rack with placements up to 4 inches, including cams and nuts. Built-in rap anchors make descent straightforward.
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