I Spy: The East Face Dihedral of St. Vrain Canyons

Lyons, Colorado USA
trad climbing
dihedral
5.8
nut tool needed
east face
single pitch
Colorado
small gear placements
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
I Spy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"I Spy presents a sustained 100-foot trad climb along a distinctive clean dihedral on the east face of St. Vrain Canyon. It balances technical jams and liebacks with subtle protection needs, offering climbers a focused, adventurous challenge in Colorado’s rugged canyon landscape."

I Spy: The East Face Dihedral of St. Vrain Canyons

I Spy offers a compelling slice of traditional climbing in the rugged South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, just outside Lyons, Colorado. This 100-foot route threads along a clean, prominent dihedral that slices left from the bolted expanse of the nearby Fogline climb. Approaching the climb requires retracing the path used for Crooked Cross before descending gently into the canyon’s east face, where three large dihedrals stand as silent challenges. The start is guarded by a ledge accessed through a short scramble over unstable rock, setting the tone for the route’s careful, involved movement.

Climbers engage a sequence of jams, liebacks, stems, and chimneys that push steadily upward. The climb is sustained, peppered with moves hovering around 5.8 difficulty—accessible, yet demanding focused attention for consistent protection and technique. Many placements are small and require excavation with a nut tool, rewarding patience and precision. The rating, once marked as R by Hubbel, feels softer than one might expect once you settle into finding solid gear, but the protection remains subtle, demanding respect and thoughtful rack choices.

The route’s finish broadens into a wide, less steep section leading to a lone tree. From here, climbers have two options: ascend directly and walk off the top, or traverse left to reach a bolted arete equipped with chains for descent. A 60-meter rope is just enough to rappel efficiently back to the ground, avoiding a potentially tricky approach down the face.

The surrounding canyon carries a quiet energy, the walls adorned by the echoes of rockfall and the steady whisper of wind threading through narrow cracks. Early morning light spills into the east face, creating sharp shadows that highlight each hold and crack along the way. This climb rewards those who come prepared—in particular, bring gear from small nuts to a #2 Camalot and a nut tool for refining placements. Sturdy footwear and careful planning around rockfall and scramble sections ensure a safer, more enjoyable ascent.

Though I Spy remains lightly trafficked, its character and setting hint at a hidden classic well worth the visit. Its union of technical moves and sustained rhythm invites climbers ready to engage with the rock fully, carving their own path up this clean dihedral amid the grandeur of the St. Vrain Canyons.

Climber Safety

Scrambling up to the start involves unstable rock—careful footing is essential. Protection placements are often small and less obvious, so thorough gear checks and a cautious approach are vital to avoid runouts.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach using the Crooked Cross trail, then traverse down canyon to the east face for the best access.

Wear sturdy shoes; the scramble to the ledge involves loose and rotten rock.

Bring a 60-meter rope for rappelling from the chains on the arete at the top.

Check for loose rock before climbing and keep helmets on to guard against rockfall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, I Spy offers consistent moves that feel authentic to this grade. The subtle protection and length of sustained 5.8 moves combine for a climb that challenges cadence and gear judgment rather than brute difficulty. Compared to neighboring routes like Crooked Cross, it holds a similar technical feel but demands more precise placement work.

Gear Requirements

Expect to use smaller nuts and cams up to a #2 Camalot. Bring a nut tool to clean and polish placements, especially the small constrictions hidden within the dihedral crack system.

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Tags

trad climbing
dihedral
5.8
nut tool needed
east face
single pitch
Colorado
small gear placements