HomeClimbingI Love Brian Piccolo

I Love Brian Piccolo: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
trad
crack
exposed
short-route
Joshua Tree
hand crack
cool-weather
small cams
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
I Love Brian Piccolo
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"I Love Brian Piccolo is a concise yet demanding trad climb in Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area. Featuring a tricky crack system with exposed sections and a technical crux, this 5.9 line rewards precise gear placements and focused footwork."

I Love Brian Piccolo: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Tucked into the rugged terrain of Joshua Tree National Park’s Lost Horse Area, the climb known as I Love Brian Piccolo offers a sharp, focused trad experience that tests technique and composure on textured crack systems. Situated on an upper tier buttress just right of sprawling boulder fields, this route demands attention not for length but for its intricate and sustained movements. The climb starts with a brittle-looking flake crack, leading into a notch that hints at the challenges to come. For those eager to extend their adventure, it pairs well with the nearby Other Voices route––just make sure you’re ready for the transitions this union requires.

Launching from a boulder-hopping approach above Other Voices, you engage a thin crack system initially protected by smaller cams, guiding you right under a prominent undercling flake. This move demands solid footwork and trust in your gear but rewards you with a leftward traverse that sets the stage for the heart of the climb. Leaning into a left-tilting crack, your grip finds a prominent, sharp handrail secured with a medium cam placement. This feature becomes a welcome resting spot amid the exposed climbing, giving a moment to settle before the crux.

The final section tests endurance with strenuous moves protected by small to medium cams, ending with a tricky finish that challenges finger strength and body positioning. The route finishes above a large flake, from which scrambling off to the right leads you back to solid ground. This short 40-foot line packs a punch, demanding precision on every move in the dry, sun-baked rock that defines Joshua Tree.

Preparation is key: sturdy shoes with excellent edging capabilities will serve you well here, along with a rack focused on small and medium cams to protect the route’s delicate crack features. Dry weather and cooler mornings offer the best conditions, avoiding the harsh midday sun that bakes the exposed walls. Approaching from Mel’s Diner via Lost Horse Area, expect a brief boulder-hop before the climb itself, set in a spot that gives a taste of Joshua Tree’s rugged granite beauty without pushing deep into remote wilderness.

I Love Brian Piccolo stands out as a concentrated trad testpiece in a park well known for its bouldering and sport routes. It’s accessible enough for climbers stepping up from easier grades but still demands respect and attention to gear placement, making it a rewarding climb for those wanting to explore the more technical side of Joshua Tree’s offerings.

Climber Safety

Rock quality varies slightly; the initial flaky crack needs cautious placements, and some handholds can feel sharp or brittle. Be mindful when scrambling off to avoid loose terrain and maintain solid footing after the climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the heat and enjoy cooler rock conditions.

Bring a rack with a good selection of small and medium cams; these are essential for safe protection.

Approach via Mel's Diner and expect some careful boulder hopping before reaching the base.

Scramble off to the right at the top to avoid loose terrain and stay safe.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here is earned by sustained technical moves rather than explosive difficulty. The route demands clean and confident crack climbing, with the crux near the finish that requires both strength and finesse. Compared to other Joshua Tree classics at this grade, it feels tight and focused, with no easy sections to rest on except the large flake nearly at the top.

Gear Requirements

Expect to rely heavily on small to medium cams throughout. The initial thin crack needs precise small cam placements, while the main crack sections favor medium-sized cams. A medium cam anchor tops the route for a secure anchor build.

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Tags

trad
crack
exposed
short-route
Joshua Tree
hand crack
cool-weather
small cams