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I Blew My Hole at Conrad Rock

Joshua Tree, California United States
slab
trad
single-pitch
desert
well-protected
technical-footwork
Joshua Tree
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
I Blew My Hole
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A well-protected slab climb on Joshua Tree’s Conrad Rock, I Blew My Hole offers a short but sharp test of balance and technique. With solid bolts and manageable gear, it’s an accessible 5.9 that rewards precision and poise."

I Blew My Hole at Conrad Rock

I Blew My Hole at Conrad Rock challenges climbers with a steep, well-protected slab that demands focus and good footwork. Located on the south face of Conrad Rock in Joshua Tree National Park, this single-pitch trad route delivers a compact but engaging experience that’s perfect for those wanting to sharpen slab skills without committing to a long climb. From the first step, the rock’s clean texture meets your hands and feet with reassuring friction, rewarding steady balance over brute strength. The climbing unfolds on a vertical slab punctuated by subtle edges and small features, inviting climbers to dance lightly and precisely.

Protection is straightforward: four fixed bolts embedded firmly, augmented by gear placements up to 2.5 inches for the anchors. This mix keeps the runouts manageable and gives confidence to runners keen to trust their placements midway up the slab. The 40-foot length moves quickly, making this a crisp, focused effort rather than a sustained grind.

Approaching the climb, you’ll traverse a lightly scrubbed path through sun-warmed desert brush, the air dry but enlivened by gentle breezes that temper the heat common to California’s high desert. The south-facing wall basks in the morning sun, making early starts ideal before the afternoon sun intensifies. Later in the day, shade retreats to nearby rocks, so timing your ascent in cooler hours adds comfort to the technical demands.

Though the climb rates 5.9, the slab’s smoothness puts emphasis on balance and body positioning rather than pure difficulty. For climbers stepping up from 5.8 terrain, I Blew My Hole offers a fun introduction to slab climbing in a protected setting, while those more experienced will appreciate its concise demand for finesse. This route’s memorable name owes itself to a first ascent mishap, lending it a quirky personality amidst Joshua Tree’s extensive climbing options.

When planning your visit, keep hydration within easy reach and wear shoes with sticky rubber optimized for slab friction. A moderate approach time means you can combine this climb with nearby routes for a full day of varied challenges. While the route’s bolt placements reduce risk, stay alert for loose rock at the base and be mindful of the desert’s shifting weather patterns, which can alter rock temperature and grip.

This climb stands as a quiet achievement against the sprawling desert landscape—an invitation to push technique, respect the rock, and savor the subtle thrill of slab climbing under a vast, open sky.

Climber Safety

Keep a close eye out for loose rock near the base and the approach, especially after windy or wet weather. The slab’s smooth surface demands good shoe rubber and careful footwork to avoid slips, so take your time.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid the intense afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.

Check your gear placements carefully; while bolts are solid, some gear spots require precision.

Stay hydrated as desert heat can quickly sap energy on exposed approaches.

Scout the descent route before climbing, as loose rock can pose hazards at the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, the climb leans on technical slab skills over sustained difficulty. The rating feels fair, with no stiff cruxes, making it approachable for those comfortable on vertical slabs but new to this style in Joshua Tree. It’s a solid benchmark for transitioning from moderate climbs to steeper slab terrain.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with gear ranging up to 2.5 inches to secure the anchors, and rely on the four fixed 3/8" bolts protecting the slab. Sticky shoes and smooth slab technique are essential.

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Tags

slab
trad
single-pitch
desert
well-protected
technical-footwork
Joshua Tree