"Humpback Arete offers a solid 5.8 trad climb on Aeroperro Wall featuring a right-facing flake and a dirty hand crack finish. With a short approach and secure anchors, it’s a perfect single-pitch outing for intermediate climbers ready to navigatetraditional gear placements amid the San Bernardino Mountains."
Humpback Arete presents a straightforward yet rewarding single-pitch trad climb, situated on the rugged face of Aeroperro Wall in California's San Bernardino Mountains. The route begins by following a distinctive right-facing flake that challenges your footwork and balance as it angles upward. This natural feature guides you to a broad ledge, offering a moment to catch your breath and take in the raw mountain atmosphere surrounding Keller Peak and the Children's Forest. Here, the climb pivots left onto a less obvious path, tracing a dirty but manageable hand crack. This final section demands steady hand jams and attention to loose rock, bringing you to securely placed anchors ready for descent.
The Humpback Arete’s approach rewards climbers who appreciate a balance of technical climbing and quiet wilderness; the granite’s texture offers reliable friction, and gear placements remain solid for a variety of traditional protection up to three inches. While the climb is rated 5.8, it feels accessible for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills without overwhelming difficulty. The route's moderate length—around 60 feet—makes it ideal for a focused morning session or as an introduction to Aeroperro Wall's bigger lines.
Access to the base involves a short hike through mixed coniferous forest in the Running Springs region. Footpaths here are marked by the sound of nearby creeks and occasional birdcalls that enliven the quiet mountain air. Climbers should plan on sturdy footwear for the approach, as trail sections can be rocky and uneven. The wall’s eastern exposure catches morning sun, warming the rock early and providing ideal conditions in cooler months. Late afternoon climbs bring shadow and cooler temperatures, which can be welcome in summer but require warmer layers.
Protection demands a well-rounded rack covering small to sizeable cams, with particular attention to sizes around two to three inches for the flake and hand crack sections. A two-bolt anchor rests comfortably at the top, allowing for a straightforward rappel or a belayed walk-off for those ready to move on. Though the climb avoids loose or crumbly rock, the finishing crack’s dirtiness calls for careful hand placement and cautious cleaning where possible.
This route fits well within a day of climbing in the San Bernardino range, making it a dependable choice for those who want a traditionally protected challenge with clear beta and minimal approach complexity. It layers solid climbing fundamentals with an appreciation for the mountain’s rugged environment—offering both technical growth and a rewarding outdoor experience.
Watch for loose dirt and occasional small debris in the hand crack near the top. The approach is generally straightforward, but careful footing is needed on the rocky trail. Secure all gear carefully, especially when placing protection in the natural flake sections.
Start early to benefit from morning sun warming the east-facing wall.
Wear sturdy shoes for the rocky and uneven approach trail.
Pay attention to loose dirt in the finishing hand crack and clean placements carefully.
Carry extra slings for anchors and cleaning gear.
Bring a full trad rack with cams up to 3 inches to protect the flake and hand crack sections. Plan for comfortable placements with solid pro and use the two-bolt anchor for easy rappelling or lowering.
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