"How the Chorizo is Made is a punchy sport route featuring a sustained vertical face capped by an exciting roof near the top. Located in the heart of El Potrero Chico’s dramatic canyon, it blends technical moves with powerful jugs to deliver a memorable single-pitch climb."
Set within the rugged confines of Las Estrellas Canyon, just beyond the vibrant climbing hub of El Potrero Chico in Nuevo Leon, 'How the Chorizo is Made' offers a laser-sharp taste of vertical sport climbing that demands focus and rewards with movement that dances between intensity and playfulness. This single-pitch route climbs a clean, vertical face that immediately tests technique and body positioning before crowning the effort with a wild roof section near the top—a feature that commands both respect and excitement.
The wall is raw and commanding, etched into the towering limestone cliffs that carve this dramatic canyon landscape. Beginning with precise foot placements on the steely vertical face, climbers work their way upward, feeling the rock’s texture under fingertips that ask for commitment. The hold variety challenges a range of grip styles, yet it’s the roof that defines the route’s character. Stretching out to reach the juggy lip offers a moment of relief but also a surge of adrenaline as the climber pulls through dynamic moves to crest the overhang.
With approximately 100 feet of climbing packed into one pitch, this route strikes a balance between testing endurance and technical skill. Protection is solidly bolted throughout, providing confidence to focus on flow rather than gear placement. The bolts are thoughtfully spaced, securing the crux moves up top where the roof demands full-body engagement and precise footwork.
As the sun spills over the canyon rim, the wall basks in direct light during the late morning and early afternoon, making those times ideal for climbing when the limestone texture grips best without becoming slick from early dew or condensation. Dry weather is key—El Potrero Chico’s northern location in Mexico means seasonal winds can bring swift changes, so timing your climb for stable, warm days ensures the rock and your fingers stay sharp.
Access to this route is straightforward, pitched right within one of Mexico’s most celebrated climbing areas. A short approach through the canyon floor offers easy footing and the hum of nearby climbing traffic, reminding you that while the rock feels wild, this is a community rooted in adventure.
Whether you’re narrowing your focus on sport climbing or looking to taste El Potrero Chico’s canyon climbing at a compelling mid-grade, 'How the Chorizo is Made' invites a blend of challenge and joy. Expect the thrill of pulling through a steep roof balanced by the security of solid bolts and the natural spectacle of the canyon’s soaring walls framing every move.
While bolts are reliable, the roof section requires confident movement to avoid swinging falls. Use care when clipping above the overhang, and be mindful of rock texture that can be sharp near the jugs.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat; the wall gets sun late morning through early afternoon.
Bring tape for finger protection on the roof moves — the jugs can be abrasive.
Check weather forecasts – canyon winds can shift quickly, affecting conditions.
Wear climbing shoes with good edging ability; foot placement is key on the vertical sections.
Fully bolted sport route requiring a standard sport rack and a 60m rope to safely manage the 100-foot pitch. Bolts are well spaced with secure placements through the roof and on vertical face sections.
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