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House Music: A Sharp Trad Challenge at The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish,British Columbia ,Canada
face climbing
crystals
layback
finger cams
single pitch
smoke bluffs
Grade: 5.10c
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
House Music
Aspect
South Facing

House Music

5.10c, Trad

Squamish

British Columbia ,Canada

Overview

"House Music is a focused trad climb at The Smoke Bluffs offering a technical sequence of face moves and laybacks on fine edges and crystals. Its single pitch challenges climbers to blend precision gear placements with deliberate climbing, offering both mental and physical engagement in a compact, accessible setting."

House Music: A Sharp Trad Challenge at The Smoke Bluffs

House Music stands out as a concise yet demanding trad climb that tests both technical finesse and mental focus against the raw backdrop of The Smoke Bluffs in Squamish, British Columbia. This 80-foot route packs a powerful punch within a single pitch, beginning with a subtle but pivotal crux that involves reaching the first bolt and finding solid footing on the upper wall. The rock here demands attentive footwork and precision, with edges and crystal holds that seem to challenge your grip with every move. The route follows closely alongside the bolt line seen on the neighboring Gross Incompetence climb, veering right just after a narrow ledge that offers a brief moment of relief and a fallback point if a slip occurs.

Beyond this initial struggle, climbers shift into a sequence of face moves that require deft balance and confident placements, progressing towards a mini arete where laybacking becomes the key to the top-out. This final section engages the climber’s upper body and core strength in equal measure, making for a dynamic finish that feels rewarding after the technical approach below.

Protection on House Music is predominantly trad, progressing from finger-sized cams placed at the start up to hand-size pieces nearing BD #1 as the route ascends. The two bolts encountered serve as critical security points, especially near the anchor, which is fully bolted with rap rings for a smooth, straightforward descent. These bolts supplement the traditional placements without compromising the route’s adventurous spirit.

Approaching House Music takes you into The Smoke Bluffs area, a climbing hub acclaimed for its accessible granite and variety of routes. Despite its popularity, this climb retains a sense of quiet focus, thanks in part to its short but punchy nature. The trail to the base is moderate, carved through stands of forest that intermittently open to views of Squamish and the surrounding mountains. Expect about a 20-minute walk on well-maintained paths, with GPS coordinates marking the approach reliably at latitude 49.706 and longitude -123.1403.

House Music is best tackled during the warmer months when the rock is dry, and the sun hits the wall at a favorable angle, warming the granite for better friction. Early morning to late afternoon climbs are ideal during summer, as shade moves around the face but never fully abandons it.

Planning gear should prioritize a rack suffused with finger to thin hand-sized cams, paired with a couple of nuts, and a set of quickdraws for the bolts. Carefully place protection where rock features suggest secure exits, avoiding any loose crystals. Shoes with sticky soles will enhance the precision required to navigate the delicate face sections.

This route calls to those who enjoy engaging but manageable challenges—perfect for trad climbers ready to sharpen skills without committing to multi-pitch complexity. For safety, be alert to the ledge positioned halfway up: while it provides a fall shelf, slips here could still result in swinging falls, so controlled, deliberate moves are critical.

House Music’s blend of straightforward access, solid protection, and intricate technical demands make it a compelling choice for climbers visiting The Smoke Bluffs, looking to meld skill-building with the satisfaction of a well-earned send.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of loose crystals along the crux face section; ensure each hand and foot placement is secure before committing. The ledge halfway up offers a fall zone but requires careful positioning to avoid swinging falls.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10c
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon crowd on popular routes nearby.

Double-check placements on the initial face moves—crystals can be tricky.

Use the ledge as a psychological rest point but climb with control.

Rappel down from the bolted anchor with rap rings, no fixed chain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.10c, House Music features a crux moving to the first bolt that can feel slightly stiff due to technical face moves on small edges and crystals. The final layback section adds a physical challenge but overall the grade sits true, comparable to other Technical Crack and Face climbs in the area.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on tips to finger-sized cams, with some thin hand-sized pieces up to BD #1. Two bolts with a bolted rap anchor assist protection on the upper section. Sticky-soled shoes will aid delicate edging on crystals.

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Tags

face climbing
crystals
layback
finger cams
single pitch
smoke bluffs