"Hotwire offers a 60-foot, single-pitch trad climb blending crack finesse with tricky placements on a blocky face. Perfect for trad climbers ready to sharpen gear skills and enjoy a focused technical climb in Murrin Park’s natural setting."
Hotwire demands more than just muscle—it calls for sharp eyes and precise placements on one of Murrin Park’s distinctive routes. Rising 60 feet against a blocky, rugged face, this single-pitch climb wraps a steady crack that angles leftward through a concave scoop before confronting a bulging overhang that tests your technique and composure. The route’s protection isn’t straightforward; small cams and nuts fit into subtle fissures and tiny edges, inviting climbers to think carefully about where to trust their gear. As you push past the overhang, the line opens into smoother terrain with positive holds easing the final moves. The rock’s texture is firm yet varied, with a mix of sharp breaks and gently sloping ledges that demand attention not only to hand and footwork but to each piece of gear you place. This is climbing that rewards patience and a calm approach.
Set within the rugged natural playground of Murrin Park, Hotwire is more than just a technical test. The surrounding environment enhances your effort, with tall Douglas firs rustling alongside the approach trail and the cool breeze that filters through the pines offering a refreshing contrast to the sun-baked granite. This route is well suited for those comfortable with traditional gear and eager to refine their crack and face technique under real-world conditions. While the route is short, the rock’s character and the subtle complexity of protection placements create an experience that lingers long after the climb.
Planning your day on Hotwire means preparing for precision. Small cam placements require a thoughtful hand—oversized gear won’t fit or hold, and the only fixed anchors are utilitarian power transformers perched at the top, making your rappel or lowered descent reliant on your own set-ups. Bring a full rack tuned for smaller cams and complement it with an assortment of nuts to cover delicate, narrow slots.
Access is straightforward from the Murrin Park parking area, with a 10-15 minute hike over firm forest trails that wind gently uphill. The approach trail skirts patches of wildflowers and patches of moss-covered stone, giving a hint of the wilderness just minutes away from Squamish’s busy core. Early mornings bring the best conditions, as the north-facing face holds shade that keeps the rock cool and comfortable, while midday sun can bake the granite and sap grip strength.
Local climbers appreciate Hotwire for its blend of technical challenge without overbearing exposure. It’s a solid option for those ready to step deeper into traditional climbing north of Vancouver, demanding steady nerves and a sharp eye for gear but rewarding with controlled moves and a clear line. Staying mindful of gear placements and timing your climb to avoid peak heat will maximize your enjoyment and safety on this finely balanced route.
Protection requires careful attention; gear placements are small and subtle with no fixed anchors at the top aside from industrial equipment unrelated to climbing safety. Make sure your anchor setup is secure and double-check all placements, especially near the bulging overhang where falls could be more hazardous.
Pack a diverse rack of small cam sizes and a full nut set for subtle placements.
Approach is a short, well-marked trail from the main Murrin Park parking lot; plan for about 10–15 minutes on foot.
Start early to climb in cooler shade; the wall faces north and heats up in afternoon sun.
Bring extra slings and cordelette to build anchors safely, as the only fixed gear is industrial and not meant for climbing.
A rack emphasizing small cams and nuts is essential. Protection demands precision as placements require finesse; larger cams won’t fit well. No fixed anchors exist; set your own anchors at the top, noting that only power transformers provide any fixed points nearby.
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