"Hot Licks offers a demanding introduction to offwidth climbing with four pitches of varied cracks and faces in Colorado’s Lumpy Ridge. This route balances technical hand and fist jams with a challenging wide offwidth that demands big cams and steady resolve."
Hot Licks stands as a raw, authentic initiation into the demanding world of offwidth climbing, positioned in the rugged confines of Lumpy Ridge, within the Estes Park Valley of Colorado. This route doesn’t just test your climbing skills—it challenges your grip, patience, and mental toughness across nearly 500 feet of varied terrain spread over four pitches. Starting just right of the Orange Julius route, Hot Licks pulls you into a hand and fist crack wedged in a chimney dihedral. The initial pitch strays from easy comfort into the kind of sustained jamming where carefully choosing your gear is critical—camping several #3 and #2 Camalots is a must here. The crack holds firm at 5.8 difficulty but demands attention through its technical sequencing and committed placements, terminating in a secure belay roughly 50 feet up.
The climbing evolves on the second pitch as climbers face a broad, flared crack rated at 5.7 which eventually crumbles into 5.9 face climbing—a shift that requires transitioning from pure crack work to delicate foot and hand placements on more exposed terrain. This pitch is notable for a slightly runout section where a confident stance and precise moves are essential to keep protected and in control. It ends in a belay alcove shared with the Orange Julius route, offering a brief moment to regroup and catch your breath.
Pitch three introduces the route’s defining feature: a vertical offwidth crack soaring approximately 100 feet. Descending a short section before starting, climbers find a sizable pin ready for clipping before the physically demanding ascent begins. The wide crack starts in the size range for #2 to #3 Camalots, opening gradually to accommodate a massive #5 Camalot at the crux. This segment challenges even seasoned climbers with its sustained struggle—jamming, sliding, and trusting gear placements while the rock demands your full engagement. Skillful use of laybacks on a subsidiary crack eases the initial 40 feet, but the heart of this pitch is the wide, awkward offwidth that forces climbers to summon confidence in body positioning and gear management.
Protection here can’t be stressed enough; traditional smaller racks won’t suffice. Modern #5 Camalots are vital for the crux, and bringing a complete double rack up to #3, plus a #4, #5, and #6 camalots, ensures not only safety but also strategic comfort. Trust the advice from seasoned climbers who emphasize the crucial role of these larger cams to secure placements on the challenging offwidth section.
The descent is straightforward by downclimbing or rappelling, but climbers must remain cautious, especially given the exposure and nature of the terrain. This climb is a perfect primer for those interested in expanding their crack climbing repertoire, particularly into wide, offwidth cracks that command respect and technique.
Situated in the vast and wild Lumpy Ridge, Hot Licks offers more than a climb—it provides an encounter with raw Colorado granite shaped by time and elemental forces. The approach is manageable, the climbing engaging, and the experience unforgettable. Whether you're stepping into offwidth for the first time or adding another challenging line to your logbook, Hot Licks demands focus, preparation, and a keen sense of adventure.
The offwidth pitch has some runout sections and gear placements that require experience and confidence in large cams. Weather can quickly complicate holds and protection; do not attempt when the cracks are wet, and ensure solid belays at all anchor points.
Bring a full complement of large cams—#5 and #6 sizes are critical for the offwidth pitch.
Expect a mix of crack sizes; preparation for hand, fist, and wide jams is necessary.
The approach trail is straightforward but allow extra time for gear hauling and warm-up stretches.
Plan your climb for dry conditions; the crack becomes much trickier if damp.
Essential protection includes a double rack up to #3 Camalots, plus singles of #4, #5, and #6. The crux wide offwidth section absolutely requires modern #5 and #6 cams for secure placements. Smaller or older gear may not fit the wider cracks, making preparation crucial.
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