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Hot Heels: Sport Climbing on Button Rock's Northwest Formation

Lyons, Colorado USA
sport climbing
crack climbing
single pitch
southwest face
bolted route
multi-use gear
summer climbing
Colorado outdoors
St. Vrain Canyon
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hot Heels
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hot Heels stands as a compact, well-bolted sport climb at Button Rock, blending smooth face moves with an accessible crack finish. Its mix of technical climbing and solid protection invites climbers to experience Colorado’s rugged St. Vrain Canyons without committing to a marathon ascent."

Hot Heels: Sport Climbing on Button Rock's Northwest Formation

Hot Heels offers climbers a compact but rewarding 80-foot sport climb etched into Colorado’s Button Rock area, along the North Fork of the St. Vrain River. The approach is straightforward, winding through rugged canyon terrain dotted with hardy junipers and rocky outcrops that set the stage for the climb. From the moment your fingers lock into the purple Camalot-sized 0.5 pod crack at the base, the climb demands focused movement and steady technique. The initial sequence is bolted for confidence, allowing you to clip through half a dozen protection points on solid rock as you ascend a face that leans into playful tension with each move. The terrain changes as you reach the ledge, where the climb shifts into a more traditional style—climbing a 5.1 crack that rewards careful gear placement with a red Camalot (#1). The belay stance above this crack is roomy enough to settle in, supported by two more cams—green and yellow Camalots (#0.75 and #2)—which also anchor the descent rappel.

The environment breathes with the sounds of the nearby St. Vrain River, whose current pushes the landscape’s energy downstream, washing away the harsh edges of the day’s exertions. The junipers nearby, stoic and weathered, watch over climbers with silent approval, their branches providing shade and a resting spot as you prepare for the rappel. Descending involves a controlled rappel westward down a 5.1 crack to a ledge, then a traverse across rough rock and plant life to reach the base, where the adventure resets.

This route suits climbers looking for a sharp blend of sport climbing ease with a touch of traditional gear work. The bolts provide safety, but the cam placements and crack section require thoughtful protection management. The rock itself is firm and mostly reliable, but expect the occasional need to inspect holds and placements carefully. Weather can swing swiftly here—early spring and late fall often bring cool temperatures perfect for tackling this route without overheating under the sun. Summer afternoons can be warm, so plan climbs for morning or late afternoon when the sun dips behind the north-facing walls of the canyon.

Packing lightweight gear focused on single cams in the 0.5 to 2 range and a standard quickdraw set will cover the essentials. Sturdy rock shoes with a sharp edge will help secure the small foot holds, especially on the initial face section. Hydrate well before the climb and bring layered clothing, as microclimates near the canyon can shift unexpectedly.

Hot Heels offers a concise but richly textured climb that effortlessly integrates the comfort of bolted security with the rewarding challenge of gear placements. Its location near Lyons means you can enjoy a quiet afternoon of climbing, then retreat to town for well-earned respite and local brews. This climb’s mix of face and crack work, combined with the natural beauty of the St. Vrain Canyons, makes it an excellent objective for climbers who appreciate balance—between adrenaline and calm, between gear and skill, and between the climb and the river rhythm flowing below.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the descent—the rappel leads to a ledge with uneven terrain and loose rock patches. Always inspect your anchors thoroughly, especially the cams in the crack which bear weight during the rappel. Seasonal runoff from the river can increase slipperiness on approach trails, so hike cautiously.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the face section.

Check weather forecasts; the canyon can quickly cool in spring and fall.

Double-check placements in the crack—rock is solid but some holds feel marginal.

Use approach shoes with traction for the short traverse after rappelling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a solid 5.9, Hot Heels offers a grade that feels consistent but approachable. While the bolted face section flows smoothly, the top crack requires deliberate placements and might push newer climbers just a bit beyond their comfort zone. Overall, this route strikes a balance: slightly stiff near the crux but well within reach for most comfortable 5.9 climbers. It compares favorably to other sport climbs in the Lyons area where bolt spacing and gear variety add a tactical element.

Gear Requirements

Bring a set of quickdraws for the six bolts on the face, plus a purple Camalot (#0.5) for the start pod crack. You'll also need a red Camalot (#1) for protection in the upper 5.1 crack, and green and yellow Camalots (#0.75 and #2) to secure the belay and rappel anchors.

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Tags

sport climbing
crack climbing
single pitch
southwest face
bolted route
multi-use gear
summer climbing
Colorado outdoors
St. Vrain Canyon