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Hot Fudge at Dairy Queen Wall

Twentynine Palms, California United States
pocket climbing
face climb
runout sections
desert
Joshua Tree
single pitch
balance moves
slopers
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hot Fudge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hot Fudge carves a distinct path up the pocketed face of Dairy Queen Wall, offering climbers a rare face-centric challenge in Joshua Tree. With balance-driven moves and a tricky crux, this single-pitch trad route invites those seeking a break from the park’s usual cracks and slabs."

Hot Fudge at Dairy Queen Wall

Hot Fudge offers a striking departure from the typical Joshua Tree climbing style, staking its claim on the Dairy Queen Wall’s most pocket-studded face that avoids the usual crack lines. From the ground, the steep slab gleams with inviting jugs, pockets, and sweeping slopers, promising a blend of technical balance and sustained movement that feels more like Southeastern sandstone than the sharp edges and friction climbs common in the park. Beginning with a demanding crux that tests your reach and finesse, the route quickly gives way to a steady rhythm of secure holds, rewarding climbers with flowing movement up 70 feet of vertical terrain. Those who start right and circle left after a few meters can soften the initial difficulty, but expect a sequence that challenges your coordination and balance throughout.

This single-pitch trad climb doesn’t offer much in the way of traditional protection beyond slung chickenheads, which means the ascent demands a confident head and a willingness to run it out in some sections. For climbers less comfortable with sparse protection, top-rope setups provide a safer alternative to enjoy the line with less mental pressure. The bolt anchor above is solid, allowing for a straightforward rap back to the base on a single rope.

The wall sits exposed to afternoon sun, making early morning ascents preferable for cooler conditions. With a unique pocketed style, Hot Fudge breaks up the familiar Joshua Tree routine, appealing to those craving an engaging face climb with balance-focused moves rather than the usual friction slabs and crack jamming. Be ready for reachy moves that may require creativity and body positioning, especially if you're on the shorter side.

Access is relatively simple, located on the right side of Dairy Queen Wall within the Lost Horse Area of Joshua Tree National Park. The approach involves a short but rocky scramble from the main trailhead, surrounding you with open desert air and panoramic views that provide space to focus before launching into climbing. Despite its sparse protection, the route rewards careful patience with a fun and sustained challenge that breaks away from the norm without overwhelming.

Preparation is key: secure footwear with sticky rubber will help manage the slopers and pockets, while hydration and sun protection are critical for desert climbs. Hot Fudge sits as a niche gem where climbers can sharpen face climbing skills in an environment that encourages mindfulness of both movement and safety, all under the unmistakable desert sun.

Climber Safety

Sparse gear placements and runout sections mean confidence in lead climbing is essential. The slung chickenheads provide limited protection, so maintain controlled movements and consider a top rope if uncomfortable. Afternoon heat increases dehydration risk; prepare accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb stepping right before moving center to ease the crux.

Early morning climbs help avoid intense afternoon sun exposure.

Sticky rubber shoes improve grip on slopers and pockets.

Use a single rope for rappelling off the bolted anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating reflects a climb that feels a bit stiffer than typical 5.9s, largely due to the crux at the start and some reachy moves throughout. The sparse protection elevates the seriousness, requiring calm focus. Compared to nearby routes, Hot Fudge is less about crack technique and more about precise footwork and balance on face holds.

Gear Requirements

Minimal traditional gear is needed, mostly relying on slung chickenheads with sparse natural protection. Consider top-roping if runout sections feel uncomfortable.

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Tags

pocket climbing
face climb
runout sections
desert
Joshua Tree
single pitch
balance moves
slopers