Horsetail Falls stands as one of June Lake’s most dependable spots for late-season ice climbing, carving its identity alongside the familiar Roadside Ice. As winter loosens its grip, the falls rarely form a uniform curtain of ice, instead presenting a dynamic mixture of textures and conditions that reward both the observant and the adaptable climber. On colder winters, you might find slick, baby-blue water ice ideal for pure vertical moves. In warmer spells, the surface transitions to cauliflower-like ice perched over a generous snow base, demanding precise footwork and careful tool placement. More often, climbers experience a blend of these conditions, echoing mid-winter’s steady yet varied offerings.

The approach begins at the terminus of June Lake’s scenic loop where a winter closure comes into effect. Parking near the power plant here sets you on path through an industrial lot before you lock into the tramline trail heading directly upward toward the falls. The trail carries you steadily uphill, punctuated by glimpses of rushing water and ice, until you reach a point just beneath the climbs—then it’s a matter of traversing to arrive at your chosen line. For low snow years, an alternative trek from the Silver Lake trailhead via the Agnew Lake trail offers both variety and less elevation gain before drifting back to the base of the falls.

At approximately 8,000 feet elevation, Horsetail Falls is graced by the clear mountain air and sprawling Eastern Sierra vistas, lending a vivid backdrop to the precarious dance on ice. The general climate favors late winter and early spring climbs, when the ice settles enough to climb with confidence, yet before warmer days cause excessive melt or unsafe runoff. The area’s exposure to variable weather means conditions can alter swiftly, reinforcing the value of experience and flexibility when planning your visit.

Among the standout classic routes are North Gully (WI2), a solid choice for those looking to stretch their legs on moderate ice climbs, rated for steady, consistent flow. Horsetail Falls itself, at WI2, ranks just a notch higher with a bit more technical challenge and that hallmark blue-ice allure. Both routes offer memorable ascents that come alive under the right conditions, suitable for climbers eager to explore late-season ice without venturing deep into the backcountry.

Horsetail Falls operates within the broader Eastern Sierra and June Lake Area climbing scene, a stretch known for access, scenic variety, and a welcoming winter climbing vibe. While the rock climbing resources linger in the background here, the focus remains on solid ice and manageable approaches, providing a practical adventure for climbers balancing climbing ambition with logistical ease.

Safety is front and center when tackling Horsetail Falls. The consistency of the ice can fluctuate dramatically, so proper assessment on arrival is critical. The traversal zones require attention, particularly in low-snow conditions where exposed ledges can add risk. Protective gear tailored for ice climbing is essential, with technical crampons, ice tools, and a helmet as the baseline. Consider also avalanche conditions during early season visits; though the approach trails are generally straightforward, surrounding slopes can carry risk.

In essence, Horsetail Falls offers a climbing experience grounded in adaptability and seasonality. It’s a place where the punishing rigor of winter’s end meets the promise of spring’s warmth—a permit-wielding zone demanding respect and rewarding those who rise to the challenge. For climbers heading to California’s Eastern Sierra in late winter or early spring, Horsetail Falls is a reliable destination that balances accessibility and thrilling ice, wrapped in the wide-open mountain air of one of North America’s iconic climbing playgrounds.