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Horse Trader: A Crisp Sport Climb in California’s Alabama Hills

Lone Pine, California United States
left-leaning seam
shaded
technical
sport
crux near top
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Horse Trader
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Horse Trader offers a precise, technical sport climb on a left-leaning seam shaded by midday sun in California’s Alabama Hills. With five bolts protecting a delicate 5.10a crux near the top, it’s a focused route that balances challenge with approachability."

Horse Trader: A Crisp Sport Climb in California’s Alabama Hills

Horse Trader offers a sharp, engaging pitch that demands precision and focus on a left-leaning seam etched into the weathered rock of Alabama Hills. This single-pitch sport climb presents a compelling blend of technical movement and shady reprieve, perfect for those seeking a moderate challenge away from the sun’s full heat. As you approach the route, the cool shadow it casts around midday reduces glare, allowing your muscles to stay fresh and your eyes sharp for the subtle crimps and smears that define this climb. The rock is willing but unforgiving near the top where the seam narrows and the hold quality thins just below the final bolts, lightly testing your control and commitment.

Secured by five well-placed bolts, Horse Trader offers a straightforward protection scheme, inviting climbers to engage with the route’s rhythm rather than hunt for gear. The climb’s modest length keeps it accessible for a quick session or a warm-up before tackling more sustained routes in the Cattle Pocket area. While rated 5.10a, the crux sits close to the anchors with a handful of delicate moves, making it feel like a step up for those comfortable on 5.9 terrain. Horse Trader is ideal for sport climbers who appreciate technical seam climbing and want to sharpen their footwork and balance in an environment that rewards precision.

Getting to Horse Trader starts with a well-marked trail through the sparse, sun-baked scrub of the Alabama Hills. Expect gentle, sandy terrain punctuated by granite outcrops and scattered rock formations—typical of this eastern Sierra landscape. The approach is brief and manageable, taking under 15 minutes from the main collection of corridors with clear GPS coordinates to guide your way. Be sure to bring plenty of water and sun protection, as the exposed trail offers little relief before you arrive at the shaded base.

For climbers who wish to avoid midday heat but still want to enjoy the route, early mornings or late afternoons are best. The climb’s western-facing wall basks in the sun during the morning but transitions to shade as the day progresses, providing natural cooling by noon. Late season spring and early fall present optimal conditions, when the area is free from extreme heat common in California summers.

Descending is straightforward—after topping out, a simple downclimb from the anchors returns you to the base in moments, avoiding the need for rappel gear. This allows for quick turnaround and multiple attempts in a day. The rock here is steady but keep an eye on loose flakes near the summit where freeze-thaw cycles occasionally loosen small holds.

Horse Trader sits comfortably in the middle of Alabama Hills’ sport offerings, perfect for climbers wanting a climb that’s rewarding without demanding extended power endurance. Its shady position and accessible protection make it a reliable choice to hone skills in an iconic outdoor setting rich with California’s rugged character.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the top seam — a few small flakes can break if loaded incorrectly. The shaded area helps reduce heat stress, but the approach through desert terrain demands careful attention to hydration and weather.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Access the route early morning or late afternoon for cooler conditions.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the subtle edges on the seam.

Bring at least one quickdraw per bolt plus extras for clipping convenience.

Stay hydrated—the dry desert air can quickly sap your energy during the approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels fairly true to the grade, with technical moves requiring precise footwork and balance especially near the top where the holds thin out. Compared to other sport routes in the Alabama Hills, Horse Trader leans toward the technical rather than purely physical, making it a solid next step for climbers comfortable on 5.9 moves looking to refine technique.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts secure the route, providing solid protection without cluttering the climb. Focus on clean clipping near the crux where holds grow sparse.

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Tags

left-leaning seam
shaded
technical
sport
crux near top