"Horse Play is a one-pitch trad climb in Angeles National Forest that offers a clean crack climb progressing from easy fists to technical finger jams. Perfect for developing crack climbing skills with solid protection options just outside Los Angeles."
Horse Play stands out as a straightforward yet engaging climb within the rugged expanse of Angeles National Forest. Situated in the Horse Flats area, this single-pitch 5.8 route offers an accessible introduction to traditional climbing techniques, paired with a setting that combines natural grit with close proximity to the urban sprawl of Los Angeles. The climb begins with a mostly mellow, slightly sloppy crack that invites climbers to feel out the rock texture while warming up their jamming technique. As you progress, the crack tightens, demanding precise finger jams and deft hand placements, testing your grip and body positioning.
The climb’s character shifts as you reach higher, transitioning from open-handed fists to more delicate finger locks before moving toward an inviting arete that rounds out the ascent. The arete challenges you to balance body tension with steady trust in rock features, culminating in a secure ledge where you can either top out or opt for a confident walk-off around the side. The atmosphere at Top Rope Wall has a quiet intensity, where the nearby sappy tree offers a reliable anchor point for top-rope setups, making this route a prime choice for those new to leading or wanting a solid traditional climb without overwhelming technical moves.
Approaching Horse Play, you’ll find a mix of sun and shade throughout the day, making early morning or late afternoon ideal to avoid peak heat, especially in warmer seasons. The route covers about 60 feet, requiring a standard rack if you choose to lead, though the fixed top-rope provides a stress-free option perfect for practicing placements or working beta without committing fully to a lead fall. The granite here is firm but weathered in parts, so testing holds and pro placements is wise before moving past any cruxes.
Beyond the climb itself, Horse Flats serves as an excellent playground with sweeping views of the Los Angeles Basin stretching beneath a high desert sky. The forest around this area interacts dynamically with the sun, winds, and wildlife, lending an honest outdoor vibe that’s easy to appreciate when pausing on the ledge to catch your breath or rig gear.
For those planning a trip, bring sturdy climbing shoes to handle varied crack sizes and a set of nuts and cams in small to medium sizes for secure protection. Hydration is key, as the approach stroll and brief scramble can warm you up quickly in California’s dry climate. Keep an eye on weather conditions and trail updates, as seasonal changes occasionally affect access roads and parking.
Horse Play rewards with a compact yet thoroughly satisfying climbing experience that blends technique-building with real outdoor exposure, making it well worth the trip for climbers eager to sharpen their crack skills close to LA’s doorstep.
Be cautious with placements near the top where the crack thins—gear can be less intuitive. The anchor on the sappy tree is reliable, but always double-check for stability. Watch for loose rock along the arete and maintain three points of contact.
Start early or late to avoid the midday heat on the wall.
Test all holds and gear placements carefully; some rock is weathered but generally solid.
Hydrate well before the climb; the approach can warm you up quickly in dry conditions.
Consider top-roping first for beta practice before committing to making a lead fall.
Standard rack recommended for leads, including nuts and cams in small to medium sizes. Top rope setups anchor easily on a sappy tree at the top.
Upload your photos of Horse Play and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.