"Horizontal Heaven provides a smooth introduction to trad climbing on solid granite cracks. This one-pitch, 50-foot climb is ideal for those wanting steady protection and straightforward moves amid the natural beauty of The Hex Wall in New Brunswick."
Horizontal Heaven offers an inviting introduction to trad climbing within the rugged landscape of The Hex Wall near Eagle Rock. This single-pitch, 50-foot route opens with a large flake that provides solid protection and an accessible starting point, making it an excellent choice for climbers easing into multi-pro crack climbing. The climb progresses through a succession of horizontal cracks spaced roughly four feet apart, each inviting placement of cams for steady security. These cracks are straightforward, presenting a comfortable rhythm that allows climbers to focus on technique without worrying about tricky sequences.
The final section leads up a clean slab that demands controlled footwork before reaching a natural tree anchor. The anchor area offers a moment to breathe and enjoy commanding views of the surrounding forested hills and the characteristic ruggedness of the New Brunswick cliffs. The atmosphere here pulses with the quiet energy of the wilderness—pine needles rustle in a gentle breeze, and the distant call of birds punctuates the climb’s calm.
Located just outside the small community of Welsford, this climb sits in a well-regarded climbing zone that showcases the granite’s quality and the area's natural beauty. The approach is a short, manageable hike through mixed forest on a well-marked trail, making access easy even with moderate gear. A small rack emphasizing finger-sized cams is essential, with a particular need for extra protection in those smaller cracks that appear along the route.
Despite its approachable rating of 5.9, Horizontal Heaven demands attentiveness to gear placements and footwork on the final slab. It suits both beginners looking to build confidence and seasoned climbers wanting a reliable, short outing in a scenic setting. Best climbed in spring through early fall, the route benefits from morning to midday sun, warming the rock without baking it. Weather in this region can shift quickly, so careful preparation and timing help ensure a comfortable and safe experience.
This ascent is more than just a physical movement up rock—it's a precise negotiation with nature’s forms, testing a climber’s ability to read protection lines and manage exposure with calm efficiency. The climb’s straightforward layout keeps stress low but engagement high, rewarding focused execution with an unobstructed moment atop the anchor to survey a quiet corner of New Brunswick’s climbing landscape.
The final slab requires careful foot placement, particularly when the rock is wet or damp after rain. The tree anchor is secure but check for loose branches before committing to the top rope or rap. Approach trail can be slippery in wet conditions, so sturdy footwear is recommended.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slab section.
Bring a small rack with extra finger cams for the horizontal cracks.
Wear smooth-soled shoes to maintain precision on the final slab moves.
Check weather forecasts carefully, as rain can make the slab dangerously slick.
Carry a small rack focused on finger-sized cams with extras in the smaller ranges. The route’s horizontal cracks accept well-placed protection behind flakes and seams. Fixed gear isn’t present, so reliable pro placement skills are essential.
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