"Hootenanny offers a sharp, single-pitch trad climb blending an unprotected face crux with a sustained crack sequence on classic Big Bear granite. Expect technical moves, precise gear placements, and solid anchors at the top."
Coyote Crag’s bold face climb, Hootenanny, invites climbers into a straightforward yet demanding 60-foot trad pitch that tests both gear placement savvy and technical finesse. Situated high on Big Bear’s northern ridges within the San Bernardino Mountains, this route delivers a blend of exposed face moves and a compelling finger crack system, set against a backdrop of rugged granite that commands respect and focus. The approach rewards with the dry scent of pine and the faint murmur of distant wildlife, setting a calm stage before you engage the crux and structured crack sequence above.
The climb begins with an unprotected slab, challenging you to find your balance and trust your footwork before reaching a lone bolt which punctuates the crux. Here, the difficulty concentrates—precise body positioning is crucial as you execute a series of moves demanding finger strength and positional awareness. Beyond this, the route opens into a striking left-slanting crack, where traditional gear placements up to 2 inches are essential. This section rewards the experienced trad climber with solid jams and rests while threading toward chain anchors shared with Golden Spike.
Originally ascended using only RP gear at the crux, the later addition of a bolt eases the mental burden slightly, offering a safety buffer without diminishing the route’s adventurous spirit. The climb’s 5.10a rating represents a fair challenge: the crux move tests technical ability, followed by slightly less strenuous but sustained crack climbing. Climbers familiar with the neighboring High Noon route often start there, enjoying a smoother warm-up on its initial section before flowing into Hootenanny’s crack—an alternate approach that many find enhances the overall experience.
The scene itself embodies the raw character of Big Bear’s lesser-traveled walls. The rock is coarse, with enough texture to inspire confidence in foot placements but demanding steady attention to gear and body positioning. Atop, sweeping views of the San Bernardino wilderness unfold, rewarding effort with quiet perspective.
For those preparing to take on Hootenanny, bring a rack focused on small to medium cams, supplemented by a single bolt and solid anchors. Early morning climbs are best to avoid the afternoon sun that can bake the southern-facing granite, making holds slippery and hands slick. Hydrate well and pack light to maintain nimbleness on the exposed face. The 10 to 15-minute approach features a rugged trail that crosses loose talus—sturdy shoes and a cautious pace help set the tone for a safe ascent.
Hootenanny isn’t just a route but an invitation: to test skills, to savor Big Bear’s high-elevation solitude, and to engage with a climb that blends technical moves with natural artistry. It’s a call to those who embrace climbing as a dialogue with the mountain, where every jam and smear connects you intimately with the stone.
The initial slab before the crux has no fixed protection aside from one bolt, so climbers should be confident in slab technique and careful with gear placements. Loose rock on the approach also warrants caution, especially after rain or freeze-thaw cycles.
Start early to avoid the midday heat on the south-facing granite slab.
Consider beginning on High Noon’s first section to warm up before transitioning into Hootenanny’s crack.
Bring a full set of small to mid-sized cams; finger-sized gear is crucial for safe protection.
The approach trail is rocky and loose—wear sturdy shoes and watch your footing.
A single bolt protects the crux moves, but be prepared with a trad rack up to 2-inch cams for secure placements along the crack. Chain anchors at the top are shared with Golden Spike, facilitating smooth anchors and descent.
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