"A brief but technical 5.9 trad climb in the Phantom Spires, Hooray Hooray! challenges climbers with a lieback crack and exposed face moves. Ideal for those honing trad technique in the scenic Lake Tahoe corridor."
Hooray Hooray! offers a sharp introduction to traditional climbing in the Phantom Spires, set against the rugged backdrop of California’s Lake Tahoe region. This single pitch, 70-foot climb presents an immediate technical challenge with a 5.9 lieback crack that tests balance and finger strength in its opening moves. Climbers who tackle this route engage with the rock’s texture—granite knobs jut out to provide sporadic handholds, demanding precise foot placement as the line bends right around a prominent hump. The climb finishes by trending along an exposed face toward a bolted anchor positioned under a small roof, providing a secure top-rope station.
This is a route best approached with clarity and respect for the tight climbing traffic. On toprope, many prefer to avoid conflict with the original Hard Up route by starting on the adjacent arete and face. These moves emphasize balance over brute force and offer a slightly more accessible introduction to the line’s character. Expect small cracks for minimal protection early on and strategic placements around the granite knobs higher up. The climb tests your ability to read the rock and choose your gear carefully, given sparse opportunities for solid pro.
The Phantom Spires area offers a raw slice of Sierra granite framed by pine-scented air and open skies. Its somewhat remote feel encourages focus and calm, with the Highway 50 corridor providing a convenient access point nearby. The climb’s orientation favors morning light, ideal for cooler conditions and better friction. Summer and early fall bring the best window for dry rock and unpressured air.
For those preparing to climb Hooray Hooray!, bring a small rack focused on nuts and small cams, plus several slings to wrap knobs safely. A double set of cams in the .3 to .5 range suits the narrow crack sections. Temper your expectations for continuous protection and rely on solid footwork to move fluidly. The bolted anchor at the top marks a reassuring end, though the approach and descent require awareness—approach trails are uneven with loose sections, so boots with firm grip are recommended. Descending involves a straightforward rappel from the two-bolt station, but double-check your setup and watch for loose rock near the anchor.
Hooray Hooray! stands out as a focused, accessible climb that captures the spirit of trad in a concise package. It rewards climbers eager to sharpen crack technique amid peaceful granite walls. The route’s compact nature invites repeat attempts, especially for those looking to bridge the gap between beginner and intermediate trad climbing. Whether topping out on lead or managing a relaxed toprope session, it offers valuable interaction with Middle Spire’s character and challenges.
Protection is sparse around the early crack and knob sections; careful gear placement and cautious movement are essential to avoid long falls. The rappel anchor is secure but check webbing and bolts before descent, as loose rock can pose hazards near the station.
Start on the adjacent arete to the right to avoid crowding the Hard Up route when top-roping.
Carry small cams (.3 to .5) and nuts for limited protection opportunities.
Morning climbs offer cooler, dryer rock with better friction on the granite face.
Wear sturdy footwear on approach trails featuring loose rock and uneven terrain.
Little protection is available along the initial crack and around the granite knobs higher on the route, with slings needed to secure these features. A recent two-bolt anchor provides a reliable rappel station at the summit.
Upload your photos of Hooray Hooray! and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.