"Hoop Dreams is a gritty, three-pitch trad climb threading loose granite slabs and dihedrals near Sheep Canyon Spire in the Angeles National Forest. It demands sharp route-finding and careful protection over 400 feet of varied terrain, blending alpine adventure with mental challenge."
Hoop Dreams carves a raw, mental line up the right flank of Sheep Canyon, a rugged draw tucked deep within the Angeles National Forest. This three-pitch trad climb demands respect not just for its physical moves but for navigating loose rock and complex terrain. The route threads its way just left of Kimchi Ridge and skirts past the Sheep Canyon Spire, ascending roughly 400 feet of varied slab and dihedral climbing. The granite here isn’t polished perfection; it’s more a challenge of patience and route-finding, with careful gear placements essential to keep the exposure manageable.
Starting with a gentle slab pitch, climbers will find a rhythm moving towards a sturdy tree anchor after about 100 feet. This initial section offers solid but occasionally loose holds, requiring steady footwork and a cautious mindset. The heart of the climb begins on pitch two: a longer, 200-foot stretch that crosses past the imposing Sheep Canyon Spire. Here, the line balances between directness and protection, following low-angle slabs and a subtle dihedral to another tree belay. The climbing occasionally slips into insecure 5.8 terrain — a grade that feels stiffer due to the fractured rock and the mental weight of trusting less stable handholds.
The final pitch presents a right-facing dihedral leading to easier slab climbing. Though the moves hover around 5.7, the fall potential is poor, and the rock remains tenuous. This section tests both technique and composure, as runners must be meticulously placed amid a fairly exposed setting. Loose blocks pose frequent hazards, especially near belay stations, and reducing this risk demands a proactive approach — clearing dangerous debris as you ascend is wise and vital to safety.
Gear is straightforward but must be carefully selected. A single rack up to #3 cams covers most placements, and traditional favorites like Wild Country Zeroes and Black Diamond X4s prove extremely valuable for the cracks and seams that sporadically open along the slabs. Nuts fill only a minor role here, making your ability to place cams confidently even more important. A 70-meter rope ensures smooth transitions between pitches without awkward back-up, and plenty of slings—some long enough to reach across trees measuring up to two feet in diameter—help reduce rope drag and protect the line efficiently. A helmet is an absolute must, given the persistent loose rock.
Reaching Hoop Dreams requires an attentive approach into Sheep Canyon, where route-finding skills come into play at the base. Scramble up to the headwall’s right side where the slabs present a clear invitation upward; drifting too far right leads into unstable gullies of class 3 terrain, while venturing left risks steeper, more poorly protected moves. Allow for extra time if climbing as a solo team unfamiliar with the rock, as steady movement and careful gear placements slow the pace. Despite the loose conditions and mental challenge, the climb rewards those who push through its rough edges with spacious views of the surrounding Angeles wilderness and a genuine sense of alpine adventure without leaving the Los Angeles basin behind.
In sum, Hoop Dreams isn’t just about the pitch grades or mileage—it's about meeting the mountain on its terms. The rock pushes you to stay alert, trust your gear, and move deliberately. It’s an ideal line for trad climbers seeking a bold but accessible alpine experience that demands more thought than pure power. Plan your gear carefully, watch for loose blocks, and take your time. The reward is a striking, seldom-crowded route offering solid climbing amid one of Southern California’s lesser-trod granite corners.
Loose rock is the chief hazard throughout, particularly at belay stations. Helmets are required to protect from falling debris, and climbers must actively remove unstable blocks during ascent to minimize risk. Approach terrain includes tricky class 3 gullies that are unstable if approached from the wrong line above the headwall.
Stay right of Sheep Canyon Spire for clearer climbing slabs; veer right can lead to loose gullies.
Helmet is mandatory due to frequent rockfall and unstable blocks especially near belays.
Clearing loose rock on belays aids safety for both you and followers—don’t skip this step.
Expect slower progress when rope soloing or with inexperienced partners; plan extra time.
Single rack to #3 cams including Wild Country Zeroes and BD X4s is essential, supplemented by a half set of DMM alloy nuts (mostly cams recommended). Bring a 70m rope, numerous slings for trees up to 2ft diameter, and don’t forget your helmet to handle inevitable loose rock.
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