5.10c A1, Trad, Aid
Lion's Head
Canada
"Homo Erectus offers climbers an engaging mix of aid and trad moves on Ontario’s Nimbus Wall. Starting with a rappel through a summit hole, the climb tests gear skills and crack technique before topping out through the same unique exit."
Homo Erectus on Nimbus Wall challenges climbers with a distinctive blend of traditional and aid climbing along a rugged limestone face in Ontario South Bouldering and Rock. The experience begins with an intriguing rappel through a natural hole perched at the cliff’s summit, demanding careful footing as you descend before initiating the climb. Once on the wall, the route unfolds in two distinct pitches, starting with a technical aid section (A1) that tests your gear placements and patience as you navigate trickier cracks and edges. The second pitch shifts focus to physical climbing, where a sustained 5.10c crack forces you to balance power and finesse to reach the belay and eventually top out by exiting through the same hole you first descended. The rock is solid, with pockets and edges that feel alive under your hands, while the wall itself holds subtle weathering that rewards precise footwork and clean protection.
The rappel through the summit hole involves some exposure and tricky anchor setup; double-check all gear and be prepared for a tight descent. Loose rock near the start of the climb can unsettle climbers if not handled carefully.
Approach the rappel with caution—the hole at the summit demands precise anchor placement and stable footing.
Focus on clean, secure placements during the aid pitch to conserve energy for the crack climb.
Use sticky rubber shoes for better grip on the slightly polished limestone edges.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon sun as the wall faces southeast, warming the rock and intensifying the climb.
The route requires traditional protection rigged for both aid and crack climbing. Bringing a standard trad rack with a focus on smaller cams and nuts will help with placements in constricted cracks. Aid gear includes hooks and etriers for the A1 section.
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