"Homer on Simpson Wall delivers a solid 125-foot trad pitch with excellent gear options and dependable movement on quality stone. This route suits climbers seeking a straightforward, well-protected experience in New Brunswick's Cochrane Lane Cliffs."
Homer stands out as a rewarding single-pitch traditional climbing route on Simpson Wall within the Cochrane Lane Cliffs, just outside Welsford, New Brunswick. At 125 feet, this climb offers solid movement across high-quality stone, appealing to climbers eager for a straightforward but satisfying challenge without fuss. The rock presents a firm, slightly textured surface that invites confident footwork and secure gear placements. Most protection comes from small cams and offset nuts, requiring climbers to bring a full rack with doubled finger-sized devices to handle the varied cracks and seams effectively.
The approach to Simpson Wall is accessible yet remote enough to feel removed from the busier crags. The area offers wide views stretching over lush forest and rolling hills, setting a quiet backdrop as you gear up at the base. The climb itself demands not only physical balance but mental clarity—the gear placements reward patience and a steady hand, underscoring the subtle craft of trad climbing.
Homer is perfect in all seasons except the wettest months, when the slippery stone can dull the edge of the experience. Morning to early afternoon sun hits the wall most warmly, making spring and fall ideal times to take on the climb comfortably. A 70-meter rope is necessary to descend safely via the established tree anchor equipped with a chain rap station. Expect a moderate approach with well-marked trails and a mostly clear, stable platform at the base.
For anyone stepping onto Simpson Wall for the first time, Homer offers a blend of technical placements and a straightforward line that is forgiving yet engaging. The route accumulates moderate vertical gain, with a natural rhythm that suits those developing their trad skills and local climbers seeking a dependable test of finesse. While the route has earned a modest star rating, it shines due to the quality of the stone and the reliability of the protection, making it a worthwhile addition to any New Brunswick trad climber's logbook.
Pay close attention to gear placement, especially with small cams—doubling up increases security. The anchor is established on a tree with a chain rap station, but always inspect before rappelling. Be mindful of variable trail conditions on the approach, particularly after rain.
Double your finger-sized cams for consistent protection in narrow cracks
Approach trails are marked but uneven, so wear sturdy footwear
Best climbed in spring or fall for optimal wall temperature and dry conditions
Use a 70-meter rope for a smooth and safe rappel from the tree anchor
Bring a standard trad rack up to 1 inch, ensuring to double up on finger-sized and smaller cams. Offset nuts are highly effective for protection. A 70-meter rope is essential for rappelling via the tree anchor with a chain rap station.
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