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Holy Twinity: A Classic Crack on the Holy Water Wall

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
finger crack
solo pitch
classic crack
slabby topout
well protected
Colorado trad
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Holy Twinity
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Holy Twinity offers a solid single-pitch trad climb on Buena Vista's Holy Water Wall. Featuring a fractured crack system converging into a hand crack and finishing on a slab, this 5.8- route challenges technique and gear placements while rewarding climbers with memorable rock and views."

Holy Twinity: A Classic Crack on the Holy Water Wall

Carved into the rugged face of the Holy Water Wall near Buena Vista, Colorado, Holy Twinity presents a straightforward yet rewarding trad climb that invites those who appreciate classic crack climbing with a subtle twist. This single-pitch route, stretching 35 feet, traces a fractured crack system that gradually aligns into one defined finger-to-hand crack, culminating in a slabby topout that tests both balance and technique. The rock’s texture offers solid friction, encouraging climbers to root their gear carefully as the line steadily gains height.

The approach brings you close to this prominent wall, where pine trees whisper nearby and the cool mountain air carries the faint scent of resin and earth. The climb starts along separated crack segments that challenge your gear placements and footwork before they merge into a confident splitter. This convergence gives a palpable sense of rhythm and flow, letting the rock ‘speak’ through your hands. The climb’s protection—ranging up to 2-inch gear and nuts—sits comfortably in the crack, making it reassuring for climbers who want to push comfortably on a 5.8- route.

Though the route has likely been climbed and enjoyed by others in the past, its history feels quietly private, with no official records in guidebooks or local databases. This adds a sense of discovery, a chance to tread lightly on an uncluttered path carved by climbers seeking the next challenge off the beaten track. The topout transitions to a slab that demands controlled movement and a mindful step, rewarding climbers with a satisfying finish and an elevated perspective over the surrounding valley.

For those coming from Buena Vista, the Holy Water Wall is a cool escape from summer heat, offering morning shade and crisp alpine breezes. Planning for this climb means bringing a standard trad rack up to 2-inch cams, nuts, and your climbing shoes with sticky rubber to grip the slab finish. Consider timing your climb early in the day to avoid warming rock that can dull friction on the top section.

Descend by walking off the ledges to the trail below or share anchors with the neighboring Unknown 5.9 route, which offers a top-rope option just to the right. This adds safety and flexibility, especially for less confident leaders popping onto the line for the first time. The approach trail is short but rocky, requiring solid hiking shoes and attention to footing.

Holy Twinity strikes a perfect balance: it’s approachable for climbers building confidence on cracks, yet technical enough to engage seasoned trad climbers looking for a brief, connected line with tangible gear placements. It’s a quiet addition to Buena Vista’s climbing options that deserves more attention—one finger crack at a time.

Climber Safety

While protection places well throughout, the slab topout requires confident footwork as slipping here could lead to a fall with limited catches. Watch your shoe grip on the slab, especially in humid or wet conditions, and double-check anchors shared with adjacent routes before committing to rappels or top-roping.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb the slab topout before the sun warms the rock.

Wear sticky-soled shoes for optimal friction on the slab finish.

Use nuts and cams up to 2 inches for secure placements throughout the crack.

Descend by walking off or use anchors shared with the nearby Unknown 5.9 for top-rope options.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- grade feels straightforward for those familiar with crack climbing. The disjointed sections early on test gear placement skills, while the slabby topout introduces a subtle balance challenge that slightly elevates the route’s difficulty. Compared to nearby routes on Holy Water Wall, it’s a reliable introduction to the area’s trad styles without any stiff cruxes.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to 2-inch cams and nuts. Protection sits well in the crack with comfortable placements. Shared anchors allow options for top-rope setups on the adjacent Unknown 5.9 route.

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Tags

finger crack
solo pitch
classic crack
slabby topout
well protected
Colorado trad