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Holy Trinity at Rattlesnake Point: A Classic Trad Route for Adventurers

Milton, Canada
trad corner
single pitch
forest approach
moderate difficulty
loose flake
north facing
Length: ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Holy Trinity
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Holy Trinity offers a no-nonsense trad climb with a single pitch that challenges with natural corners and careful gear placements. Ideal for climbers seeking a practical and rewarding route near Milton, Ontario."

Holy Trinity at Rattlesnake Point: A Classic Trad Route for Adventurers

Carving a line along the Main Wall at Rattlesnake Point, Holy Trinity offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb that suits both newcomers and seasoned climbers eager for a relaxed but dynamic ascent. This single-pitch route embraces a rugged corner that challenges with its natural features—starting by following the corner until it’s sealed off by a low roof, where you’ll carefully traverse right, skirting a loose black flake that tests your focus and rock sense. The climb demands attention as you shift right again to navigate a narrow gully, where the rock’s texture shifts and catches your fingertips with quiet insistence.

Rattlesnake Point itself is an accessible wilderness escape just a short drive from the bustling edges of Ontario, Canada. The granite here bears the subtle marks of time and climbers past, boasting angles that provide both protection opportunities and exposure, just enough to keep your senses sharp. The route’s moderate 5.6 rating slides into a comfort zone for trad enthusiasts looking to sharpen their gear placements in a real-world setting without stepping into demanding technical territory.

Approaching the wall, you’ll find a well-trodden path weaving through mixed forest—pine and deciduous trees stretch skyward, their needles and leaves whispering with the wind, grounding you in the moment before you set hands to rock. The vertical face hangs with a quiet promise, the corner linear and inviting. Rock conditions are solid but require respect, especially near that suspect black flake offering a subtle warning not to rely entirely on its grip.

Protection is straightforward but essential—bring a rack with a range of cams and nuts suited to protect awkward variations in the corner and gully. The technical moves are not sheer force but the kind that reward mindful footwork and calm judgment. Expect the climb to occupy roughly 50 feet of generous vertical movement with a single pitch that flows naturally, making it well suited for a quick session or part of a longer day exploring the Golden Horseshoe area.

Time your visit for early mornings or late afternoons to avoid the harsher midday sun on the Main Wall. The north-facing aspect keeps the route relatively cool in summer, yet seasonal transitions bring crisp air and quieter crowds, offering a serene spot to hone your trad technique. After topping out, the descent is straightforward with a short walk-off along the trail back to the base, mindful of loose stones on the path.

Local climbers appreciate Holy Trinity for its balance of simplicity and subtle challenges, making it an excellent choice for those wanting to build confidence on natural gear placements, or for adventurers seeking a refreshing climb with the serenity of forest hum and open sky overhead. Whether you pair it with other routes in the area or savor it as a solo highlight, this climb stands as a reliable staple that invites a practical approach wrapped in the joy of vertical movement.

Climber Safety

Watch out for the questionable black flake during the traverse; never rely solely on it for protection or body weight. The approach trail can be slippery after rain, so good footwear is necessary to prevent slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach early or late to avoid direct sun on the wall.

Check rock condition after rain; the corner can be slick.

Bring traditional gear with a variety of sizes; no fixed anchors.

Use sturdy footwear with good edging for precise footwork on the granite.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating presents a comfortable challenge for trad climbers who want to refine their crack and placement skills without intense technical cruxes. The route's secure handholds and manageable moves make it feel slightly softer than other 5.6 climbs in the region, though the traverse past the black flake adds a moment of careful movement.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack is essential, with cams and nuts capable of fitting finger to hand-sized placements. Be cautious around the loose black flake—it’s best viewed as a feature to avoid for protection anchor placements.

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Tags

trad corner
single pitch
forest approach
moderate difficulty
loose flake
north facing