5.10a, Trad, Sport
Los Angeles
California ,USA
"Holy Crap presents a sharp, focused climb on Tick Rock's Main Wall, blending slabby lower sections with steep, bolt-protected face climbing and a crack finish. This single-pitch route offers a compact, varied challenge perfect for trad enthusiasts blending bold movement with reliable protection."
Holy Crap stands out as a compelling short climb on the Main Wall of Tick Rock, located within the Santa Monica Mountains near Los Angeles. This route offers a concentrated burst of climbing variety, blending tricky slab, crack systems, and steep face climbing over its 60-foot length. Beginning on lower angle blocky terrain, you’re immediately challenged to navigate a mix of shallow cracks and delicate slab moves that require thoughtful footwork and balance. The initial bolt appears just below a small roof, where the climb shifts in character — above this point, a crack splits the face, inviting you to engage more actively with the rock.
The climb demands focus as you push through a shallow roof section, cleverly sticking to the right side of the prow to avoid overtly difficult moves, while subtle route-finding leads you left to join the Flying Guillotine line. From here, you traverse up a steep bolt-protected face, where reachy and well-spaced jugs provide rhythmic holds that test your endurance and precision. Passing another shallow roof feels easier than it looks but requires commitment and efficient movement.
The finish offers options: move left to clip the open cold shut anchor atop Perro De La Guerra or extend your sling and shift right to tackle a low-angle layback combined with undercling moves, progressing into a shallow alcove with a corner crack. Here, the last bolt clips safely, and a final push up a semi-flared finger crack leads to the chains. For climbers looking to tweak the challenge, a variation involves clipping the first bolt then stepping right to clip two bolts on Circus Midget before returning left for the finish, effectively bypassing the crux of Flying Guillotine and softening the difficulty to around 5.9.
Holy Crap's blend of protection points — eight bolts leading to a two-bolt chain anchor — paired with the option to place medium cams on the lower angle traverse, makes it accessible for those with some trad experience but wanting the security bolts provide. The climb rewards well-planned gear placement alongside athletic movement, perfect for those who appreciate a route that balances bolt security with natural protection.
Approaching Holy Crap is straightforward, situated in the highly accessible Santa Monica Mountains, with parking and trailheads well marked. Climbers prepping for this route should bring shoes that handle slab and crack delicately and plan for a moderate warm day to avoid overheating on the sun-exposed upper walls. Given the hill’s western exposure, mornings offer cooler temperatures and more comfortable climbing conditions.
This climb is ideal for intermediate to advanced climbers wanting a quick but engaging outing close to Los Angeles, combining a variety of climbing styles in a compact setting. The mixed trad and sport protection encourages diverse gear skills, while the scenic surroundings of Tick Rock deliver sweeping views over the basin and nearby peaks. Holy Crap offers a fulfilling adventure that matches efficiently with busy schedules and provides a solid challenge within an urban-adjacent wilderness space.
Watch for loose blocks near the slab start, and be cautious under the roof where the rock can feel slightly crumbly. The anchor involves slinging a cold shut; double-check all anchors before committing to the descent.
Approach early in the day to avoid strong afternoon sun on the upper face.
Shoes with solid edging and sticky rubber improve footing on slab sections.
Bring a medium set of cams along with draws for the mixed trad and sport protection.
Consider the variation linking Circus Midget bolts to soften the crux and add options.
The route is bolted with eight fixed points leading to a two-bolt chain anchor. Medium cams are recommended for protecting the lower angle traverse on the right side, adding security where bolts are spaced wider.
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