5.9, Trad
Banff
Canada
"A well-protected nine-pitch trad climb situated on South Peak in Banff National Park, Hoka Hey! combines moderate difficulty with thoughtful bolt placements to create a reliable and rewarding alpine limestone experience. Its standout corner pitch and manageable approach make it a favored choice for adventurous climbers in the area."
Hoka Hey! stands as a fresh and compelling challenge on South Peak’s rugged cliffs within Banff National Park, Alberta. This nine-pitch trad route measures approximately 1,350 feet of climbing, inviting climbers into a moderately technical and thoughtfully protected ascent. From the first step on the left-leaning ramp, the rock demands attention, with bolts punctuating the line and gear placements woven into passageways that feel both safe and stimulating. The approach leads through high mountain terrain that hums with crisp alpine air and the faint chorus of mountain birds, an immediate reminder of the wilderness surrounding this climb.
The route’s design reflects a deliberate balance between protection and adventure. The bolts reduce rope drag and protect against rockfall risk, critical in this classic Canadian alpine environment known for its shifting stone. Pitch three particularly earns praise for its sustained, long corner system, rated 5.8+, where every move feels earned and the rock’s texture almost dares climbers forward. It’s a standout section that provides both beauty and challenge without compromising safety.
For climbers who enjoy a purer gear experience, there are alternatives in the area, such as Yam, offering more traditional crack climbs at 5.8 that feel bolder and less reliant on bolts. Still, Hoka Hey!’s modern approach to protection makes it a desirable route, especially for parties who prioritize efficient movement while minimizing the hazards typical in alpine trad lines.
The logistics of the climb are straightforward but demand preparation. Pitches range from 20 to 55 meters, allowing some options for simul-climbing, especially on the first two pitches if you’re equipped with a 60-meter rope. The belays are all bolted, providing secure anchors and a chance to rest amid the rocky ascent. Climbers should come equipped with a rack that includes single camalots sized 0.5 to 2, alongside 18 draws (four of which are runner slings), to manage the mixed protection style.
The South Peak location offers striking views that evolve with elevation—the forested valleys below give way to expansive mountain vistas as you near the summit. Following the final pitch, climbers can either push onward for a scenic 30-minute trek to the summit of Mt. Cory or begin their descent.
Expect some exposure to loose rock on ledges during pitch six, so vigilance is key when hand and footholds pass through these sections. Rock quality here rivals many classic Banff climbs, but the nature of alpine rock demands respect and good judgment.
When planning your ascent, consider timing your climb for the warmer months to avoid unstable winter ice and snow conditions. Early season ascents can still hold patches of snow higher up, so warming temperatures and dry conditions offer the best experience. Lightweight, flexible footwear paired with a solid trad rack will prepare you for the varied terrain, from waterworn grooves to blocky aretes.
In sum, Hoka Hey! presents an engaging and dependable route for trad climbers eager to test themselves amid Banff’s wilderness. It bridges practical protection with genuine alpine adventure, set against a backdrop of wild, open mountain spaces. Whether you're guiding clients or seeking a solid new challenge, this route rewards commitment with a blend of rhythm, exposure, and the satisfying friction of Banff’s limestone cliffs.
Despite extensive bolting, loose rock on some ledges, particularly on pitch 6, requires cautious route-finding and good communication. Helmets are a must, and be prepared for variable rock quality typical of alpine limestone. Rope drag has been mitigated by the bolt placements, but long slings are advised for traverses.
Combine pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m rope using simul-climbing for efficiency.
Watch for loose rock on ledges on pitch 6—helmet and vigilance essential.
Late spring through early fall is the ideal window to avoid snow and ice.
Prepare for a 30-minute trek from the top pitch to Mt. Cory summit or begin the descent here.
Require single camalots from 0.5 to 2, 18 quickdraws with four runners, and all belays are bolted. Protection mixes bolts with traditional gear placements, aiming to reduce rope drag and increase security on tricky traverses.
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