Hoedown: A Steep Ascent in Waterfall Alcove

Lee Vining, California United States
technical
exposed
thin holds
fragile rock
bolt protection
mental challenge
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hoedown
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hoedown strikes immediately with tough, technical moves on thin granite fins that demand focus and commitment. A harrowing section near the third bolt reminds climbers that this is no casual sport pitch, making it a compelling choice for those seeking challenge and sharp skill testing."

Hoedown: A Steep Ascent in Waterfall Alcove

Hoedown is a fierce single-pitch sport climb tucked into the Waterfall Alcove within the rugged Granite Basin region. This sharp climb launches you immediately into overhanging, technical moves that demand precision and commitment. The rock beneath your fingers feels thin and fragile in places, challenging your trust in the holds as you push upward with careful urgency. The initial sequence up to the first bolt tests raw finger strength, followed by sustained difficulty through the second bolt. Beyond this point, the route loosens momentarily, offering a breath before the route's reputation stakes its claim.

A nerve-jangling section approaches the third bolt, where the holds narrow into slender fins jutting downward. This is where the mountain’s personality comes out most clearly: the rock seems to dare you to rely on it, but its uncertainty commands respect. Falling here carries a serious consequence — a 35-foot drop to the base with little margin for error. Successfully clipping this bolt feels like an earned victory over nature’s unpredictable edge. Once past this critical crux, the path smooths out to moderate climbing rated around 5.9 all the way to the anchor chains.

This route is as much a mental test as physical, a sharp reminder that route safety is paramount and that not all bolts inspire confidence. For those ready to face its exposed moves, Hoedown offers an intense encounter with granite’s raw side framed by the sweeping Sierra Eastside landscape. Be prepared mentally and physically. Steady boots, chalked hands, and calm breathing will serve you best as you negotiate the sharp, demanding terrain here.

Approaching Hoedown involves a short hike through moderate terrain within a large wilderness area that feels away from busier climbs. Pack plenty of water and plan your ascent during cooler parts of the day since the wall faces east and catches the early sun quickly. Due to the route's high risk near the crux, climbing with a trusted partner and thorough communication are essential. Make sure your rack is ready for sport climbing—four bolts and chains anchor the climb, but always double-check fixed gear before committing.

Whether you seek to sharpen your lead climbing skills on thin, technical granite or crave the adrenaline of a route that keeps you alert every move, Hoedown promises a memorable outing. This climb will stretch your confidence and precision, rewarding those who meet the challenge with a swift, clean anchor toss and the quiet satisfaction of mastering a route that refuses complacency.

Climber Safety

The approach to the third bolt involves trailing thin rock fins that can break under load, making falls potentially dangerous. Given the 35-foot fall potential onto a hard base, climbers must maintain solid control and avoid over-gripping or dynamic moves here. Inspect all fixed gear carefully before climbing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid direct sun on the east-facing wall during late morning.

Double-check the integrity of all bolts, especially near the third clip.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with strong edging capabilities for thin granite holds.

Stay hydrated—the approach and climb demand steady energy.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a X
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating here feels stiff, particularly due to the runout section near the third bolt that significantly amplifies the climb’s seriousness. While the initial moves push power and technique, it’s the mental stress from the distance between bolts and questionable rock quality that defines the route's challenge. Compared to other Sierra Eastside sport climbs, Hoedown stands out as more committing and less forgiving.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts secure the route, anchored with chain links at the top. Protection is limited, requiring climbers to trust the fixed gear while moving carefully through the crux zone. Bring a sport climbing rack and inspect bolts closely before ascent.

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Tags

technical
exposed
thin holds
fragile rock
bolt protection
mental challenge