"Hobknob offers a straightforward trad climb on Yosemite’s Sunshine Cliff, weaving technical knob climbing and delicate crack placements over four pitches. Perfect for those seeking a moderate challenge with a taste of Yosemite’s iconic granite and a relaxed approach."
Hobknob presents an unvarnished trad climbing experience perched on the bolted face just right of Corn Corner in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon. This route demands steadiness and a taste for technical knob climbing rather than sustained endurance. The freshly replaced bolts provide confidence amidst the somewhat flaky granite, though the rock’s texture reminds you to move deliberately. The climb unfolds over four pitches across 450 feet, pairing off-width crack placements with sections of bold face climbing peppered with substantial knobs that require tactile engagement.
The first pitch is a subtle test of route-finding and gear placement—scramble up to a compact shelf above a solitary pine, inserting protection into a narrow crack before threading rightward toward a bolt and then weaving left around a small bulge. This lower section rewards patience and precision. At the belay, climbers have the choice to anchor securely or link into the next pitch, setting up a flow that feels more like exploration than racing.
Pitch two continues upward with a series of bolts guiding you over prominent knobs to a broad ledge fringed with bushes and small trees. This spot forms a natural break in the climb, where descending via rappel is possible, or you may opt for a walk-off to the right if heading back to the wall’s base for additional climbs. Beyond this, the upper pitches shift character. The third pitch branches between climbing a somewhat neglected, sandy, and lichen-covered crack rated 5.7 or tackling easier but runout knobby face moves at a 5.6 R/X level, demanding an acceptance of loose feet and bold decision-making.
The final pitch eases into a 4th-class scramble, but belay stations are minimal and precarious, encouraging some simul-climbing or careful traverses to trees in an adjacent gully. Hobknob’s deceptive simplicity lies in its varied terrain and the quiet challenge of reading the rock—there’s no continuous pump, but the knack for placing gear and trusting subtle knobs keeps the mind sharp.
The route sits within Yosemite National Park’s iconic climbing landscape, offering proximity to world-class walls while delivering an experience tailored to climbers comfortable with moderate trad terrain and a preference for knobwork over sheer athleticism. This climb reminds you that not every classic needs to be steep or sustained to be memorable, instead unfolding as a nuanced interaction between climber, rock, and environment.
For those preparing to engage with Hobknob, bring a rack geared to 2-inch protection, as bolt coverage is good but pockets for natural gear require careful selection. Sturdy footwear with reliable edging will help maintain secure contact on knobs and edges alike. Approach time is minimal compared to Yosemite’s grander routes, but rock condition can vary with loose sand and lichen, so keen attention to footholds is essential. Early morning climbs catch the wall in favorable light and stable temperature, while late season offers drier conditions to reduce slipping hazards. Understanding the descent—either a rappel or a walk-off requiring navigation through bushy terrain—is crucial for a smooth exit.
In sum, Hobknob is a compact trad route coined for those who appreciate subtle technical moves, thoughtful gear placement, and a route that invites reflection as much as action. It stands as a worthy option for beginners stepping up to Yosemite’s granite or seasoned climbers seeking a modest, low-commitment test within one of America’s most historic climbing arenas.
Loose sand and lichen accumulate on upper slabs, creating slipping hazards especially after rain or in wet conditions. Be cautious with foot placements on knobs that can break or shift, and exercise care with limited belay anchors on higher pitches.
Start early to avoid heat and unstable rock conditions later in the day.
Prepare for loose sand and some lichen on the upper pitches, which can reduce foot friction.
Bring sturdy shoes with solid edging and clean your gear regularly to handle dusty holds.
The descent can be rappelled from the large ledge on pitch two or walked off rightwards; know your escape before climbing.
The route is bolted with recently replaced hardware, complemented by protection placements up to 2 inches. A medium rack with doubles in the small to medium cam sizes is advisable, emphasizing placements in the thin crack on pitch one and gear between bolts on the face sections.
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