"HMR-6 challenges climbers with a mix of delicate pinch moves and crack climbing on a low-angled arete at Lover's Leap, near Lake Tahoe. This single pitch packs an engaging crux with varied protection options, perfect for trad enthusiasts ready to explore beyond the beaten path."
Carved into the rugged granite of Lover's Leap, just off Highway 50 near Lake Tahoe, HMR-6 offers an intriguing blend of traditional climbing challenges wrapped in a uniquely atmospheric setting. This low-angled arete demands a steady hand and an eye for gear placements, rewarding climbers who enjoy a mix of exposed crack and bolted face climbing. The route begins with fingers pinching long, slender "fins" of stone, interspersed with stout bolts that hint at the route’s less-traveled reputation — it’s a climb for those who want to explore beyond the usual lines. A stout cam placement and an old, well-fixed ring-iron piton add a touch of vintage flavor, but extracting gear here is not for the faint-hearted. After these initial moves, the climb opens into a subtle choice: veer left into a slightly easier crack and dike sequence protected by solid traditional gear, or stay right and embrace exposed crimping past two more bolts strung along the arete.
The crux lies within these options — the left line leans on good #2 and #3 Camalots, offering secure but committing protection in a crack that challenges body positioning and movement fluidity. The right arete section demands sharp fingers and confident footwork across delicate crimps, backed by bolts that provide psychological safety but leave no room for error. Passing the crux, the route leads you up a dike-covered slab glistening in the California sun, where the slab’s friction invites precise foot placements en route to the anchor secured by Mussy hooks.
A single pitch of 100 feet, HMR-6 packs its punch in technical execution rather than sheer verticality. Still, timing and rope management are critical: a 60-meter rope just grazes the distance for a clean up-and-down, so knotting the free end is a prudent safety move before committing to a descent. For those wanting to extend their play, the anchor offers a top-rope option on a mellow, flared crack just left of the main line, providing a perfect playground for honing crack skills.
Located near the bustling Lake Tahoe corridor, this route is remote enough to feel like an escape, yet close enough to infrastructure for practical logistics. The granite here is solid, but keep an eye on the dikes as they can be slick after rain or morning dew. Given the exposed nature of the climb, early morning or late afternoon ascents avoid the intense midday sun, which can quickly drain your energy on this sun-exposed face. Footwear with sticky rubber and precision edging capabilities will serve you well on the slabby sections while a lightweight rack focused on #2 to #4 Camalots covers most protection needs – especially if you want to navigate the left crack path comfortably.
While the route is not crowded (rated around 2 stars on average), this can mean less beaten chalk marks and more reliance on your instinct and beta. Remain diligent about gear placements and anticipate some run-out sections, especially if you pick the arete over the crack. Weather conditions can amplify difficulty—summer heat tightens grips and winter’s chill seizes holds — so dress accordingly and carry sufficient water.
HMR-6 is perfect for intermediate trad climbers hungry for a route that blends technical finesse and varied protection. It challenges you to read the rock, adapt on the fly, and savor the quiet pulse of this part of California’s climbing landscape. Whether you’re looking to push your trad grades or simply enjoy a less-traveled face on a magnificent granite peak, HMR-6 delivers an honest, memorable day out with the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada’s rugged expanse just beyond your line of sight.
Pay close attention to the condition of the old piton and backup placements near the crux, as extraction can be tricky. Weather changes can make the dike slabs slick, so test foot holds carefully. Always knot the rope ends when rappelling to avoid accidental rope loss.
Start climbing early or late in the day to avoid harsh sun exposure on the slab.
Check gear placements carefully, especially near the old piton, which can be awkward to back up or remove.
Bring sticky rubber shoes for precision on slabby sections and crimps.
Wear layers and carry water—conditions vary quickly in the Sierra Nevada.
Bring a rack focusing on #2 and #3 Camalots for the crack line, with a possible #4 Camalot for runout protection. The bolted arete requires fewer cams but be prepared for tricky placements and rely on stout cams up to #3. A 60-meter rope is just long enough for the round trip; knot the end to stay safe on the rappel.
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