HMR-3 at Lover's Leap: A Technical Trad Challenge on the Hogwild Wall

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
trad
crack climbing
slabby
single-pitch
small gear
bolted slab
technical
mussy hook anchor
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
HMR-3
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"HMR-3 at Lover's Leap offers climbers a technical, gear-focused trad challenge set on the Hogwild wall's granite face. This concise single-pitch route blends delicate crack placements with a steep crux and slab climbing above bolted protection."

HMR-3 at Lover's Leap: A Technical Trad Challenge on the Hogwild Wall

At Lover's Leap, just beyond the bustle of Highway 50 and within the expansive granite embrace of the Hogwild formation, HMR-3 stands as a concise and strategic trad climb that demands both patience and precision. The route initiates with a confident scramble up an inviting face, where friction and balance set the tone. Soon, climbers encounter a small left-facing corner—this is where your first protective gear can be placed, offering a welcome foothold in the route’s rhythm.

From here, the climb veers right toward a distinct, slabby crack characterized by its flaring, thin profile that tests your gear placement skills and nerve. The crack’s fragile appearance belies real challenge: HB offsets, TCUs, and brassies become vital tools in securing protection as you negotiate the sparse holds scattered along the line. The climb transitions into a tense moment as you commit to moves above unreliable gear, pushing into a steepening crux where the first bolt hides subtly beyond sight from the ground. Here, the mental game comes into sharp focus—trusting your placements and committing to movement despite uncertainty.

Beyond the crux, the route softens into a slab with widely spaced bolts. Holds feel secure but occasionally coated with a light film of dust or moss, demanding measured footwork and steady hands. The climb concludes at a mossy face crowned by a solid Mussy hook anchor, offering a reliable and well-maintained top-out point.

HMR-3 requires a compact set of gear up to two inches, with TCUs and HB offsets proving particularly useful on the tricky placements within the flaring crack. While the bolted sections provide a safety net, the route's challenge lies in attentive gear management and steady composure through thin, less obvious protection spots.

Approaching HMR-3 involves a straightforward hike from the highway corridor, with well-marked trails guiding climbers into the heart of the Hogwild wall. The area sits at roughly 38.8 degrees latitude and -120.1 longitude, offering a high Sierra backdrop where granite towers rise sharply against the sky. Climbing here means engaging with a storied granite landscape that has captivated generations, each route marked by its own unique fingerprint of technical demands and natural features.

To prepare, bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on smaller cams and nuts, alongside quickdraws for the bolts. Light midweight shoes with reliable edging will aid your confidence on the slabby sections, especially when holds feel less than perfect. Given the route’s exposure and the steep crux moves, timing your climb for morning to early afternoon hours when the wall is warmed but not overheated will enhance your grip and comfort.

Safety cannot be overstated: the final runner before the crux is reputedly wobbly, so careful assessment and deliberate moves are essential. Also, expect some moss and dust on the slab sections which can reduce friction and heighten the need for controlled, precise climbing. Descent is straightforward via rappel from the anchors, but double-check your setup and be mindful of slippery rock during downclimb or hike-off.

HMR-3 offers a compelling blend of straightforward access, technical gearwork, and mental focus, perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills while enjoying Lover’s Leap’s iconic granite. It’s an ideal single-pitch challenge that rewards steady commitment and thoughtful protection choices, embedding itself as a worthy line on the classic Hogwild wall.

Climber Safety

The last gear placement before the crux is known to be unstable—test carefully and commit deliberately. Moss and dust on the slab bolts can reduce grip; ensure slow, controlled climbing here. Approach trails can be slick when wet—prepare accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Highway 50 Corridor with GPS: 38.80235, -120.1392.

Start early to avoid mossy, dusty holds warmed by direct sun.

Focus on precise gear placements in the thin crack to avoid relying on loose protection.

Use lightweight but aggressive edging shoes for slab sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:While the 5.8 rating suggests moderate challenge, the route’s emphasis on thin crack gear placements and a tense crux over minimal protection tends to elevate the mental difficulty. The grade feels slightly stiff for the rating due to the insecure final runner and delicate slab moves above. Comparable to other Lover’s Leap 5.8 routes requiring steady headspace and precise footwork.

Gear Requirements

Bring a complete trad rack up to 2 inches. TCUs, HB offsets, and brassies are particularly useful for securing tricky placements within the thin, flaring crack. Four bolts protect the slab topping out section. Mussy hook anchors provide a reliable finish.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of HMR-3 and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
crack climbing
slabby
single-pitch
small gear
bolted slab
technical
mussy hook anchor