"Hippy Child offers a focused two-pitch trad climb on pristine granite faces in Yosemite's Lower Merced River Canyon. With solid placements and moderate exposure, it’s perfect for those looking to mix technical gear work with straightforward climbing in an iconic setting."
Hippy Child presents a focused two-pitch adventure tucked into the rugged lower Merced River Canyon of Yosemite National Park. This route offers a straightforward yet engaging trad option just off the Parkline Slab, perfect for climbers looking to blend a touch of gear placement with a moderate face climb. The first pitch begins with a scramble to a well-placed BD piton, quickly drawing you into a thin crack system that demands precise hand and finger jams. Along the way, four bolts provide secure resting spots as you gain height. The exposed face here hums with the subtle hum of Yosemite’s granite, cool to the touch and reliably solid underfoot. As the pitch stretches roughly 125 feet, climbers should prepare for a rope rappel with two ropes despite the route’s moderate length—falling short with a single 70m rope risks a longer, more complicated descent.
The second pitch is a step into a slightly more mysterious passage, with five bolts guiding you to the summit of a diminutive pinnacle. While the ascent details remain sketchy—there are no firsthand beta reports—the climb reportedly finishes at a less stable anchor. The Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley guide suggests the gear here can extend up to 2-inch cams, hinting at the need for a full rack when preparing to lead this segment.
From start to finish, the climb threads through perfect granite textures under the high Sierra sky, where sunlight filters intermittently through scattered pines, warming the rock in early morning hours but offering shade by midday. This spot’s proximity to Yosemite Valley means crowds may be present on busier days, but this route generally stays quieter, allowing for reflective moments on the wall balanced against the surrounding buzz.
Gear choices should focus on a wire rack covering small to medium cams and a full set of nuts, complemented by quickdraws for bolts on pitch one. The anchors require two-bolt setups with chains, reassuring for safe transitions. Experienced leaders will appreciate the straightforward but tactical placements and the manageable 5.9 rating that blends technical smarts with physical engagement.
Approach is manageable, with a short hike from the Parkline Slab trailhead threading through granite slabs and open forest patches, the ambient sounds of the river nearby urging your progress onward. Expect around 20-30 minutes of approach time, with GPS coordinates offering reliable navigation to the base.
Overall, Hippy Child rewards those who appreciate a balance of gear-based climbing with short, crisp exposure on a classic Yosemite wall. Its accessible difficulty and scenic vantage make it a solid choice for climbers wanting to sharpen trad skills while soaking up the park’s elemental charm.
Anchors at the summit of pitch two are noted as poor; climbers should double-check all fixed gear before committing and be prepared for a cautious descent. The rappel requires two ropes to avoid dangerous pendulum or rope drag.
Bring a full rack including small to medium cams (up to 0.75 inches) and nuts for the first pitch.
Double rope rappel recommended due to pitch length and anchor setup.
Aim for early morning to catch sun on the lower slabs before they become shaded.
Prepare for somewhat poor anchors at the top of pitch two; plan your descent accordingly.
Nut and small cam placements dominate pitch one, with gear sizes up to 0.75 inches recommended. Four bolts aid protection along the crack. The second pitch bolts require quickdraws and gear up to 2 inches for the final anchors. Two ropes recommended for safe rappel.
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