HomeClimbingHighway Star

Highway Star: Yosemite’s Compact Powerhouse Trad Climb

Yosemite Valley, California United States
finger crack
roof crux
5.10a
single pitch
Yosemite trad
short approach
tree belay
technical crack
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Highway Star
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Highway Star is a short, powerful trad climb in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon that tests crack skills and strength over a single, intense pitch. Featuring a sharp finger crack and a challenging roof crux, it’s perfect for climbers ready to push hard on clean granite."

Highway Star: Yosemite’s Compact Powerhouse Trad Climb

Highway Star delivers a brief but intense climbing experience right in the heart of Yosemite Valley’s Lower Merced River Canyon. This route offers a concentrated punch of technical trad climbing spread over a single 60-foot pitch, where every move demands focus and finesse. From the very start, you’re met with a distinctly rugged wall dominated by a prominent triangular flake that acts as your initial foothold and strategic fulcrum. The left side of this flake presents easier terrain but is sparing with protection opportunities, urging careful consideration of gear placement as you engage.

As you transition upward, a tight finger crack emerges, inviting you to trust your hand jams and maintain efficiency. The route intensifies swiftly with a crux that forces you to power through a small but frustrating roof—a moment that tests core strength and technique alike. Beyond this challenge, the climbing smooths into a splitter hand crack that runs clean and true, an invitation for those gold Camalots to find secure homes. A playful, dynamic move rightward introduces variety before the final stretch leads straight to a sturdy tree that serves as your belay anchor.

Approach is straightforward, with a short walk-in from the iconic Yosemite Valley floor. Access the base easily by scrambling left from the route’s endpoint for a convenient top-rope setup anchored on the same tree. This versatility means climbers not ready to lead can still savor the line with confidence, making it an ideal choice for those transitioning into harder trad climbs.

For those craving more, a 5.10b variation spins off from the base along the left side of the triangular flake. This side route includes a technical traverse left, looping back right around a flake nicknamed the 'Texas flake' for its outline. It reconnects with the main route, rewarding climbers with a slightly more sustained challenge and technical diversity. Top-roping this variation is advised to include a directional anchor to minimize swing risks.

Gear up with a single rack up to 3 inches, including extra 2-inch cams for the finger crack sections. Protection can be sparse early on, so precise placements and confidence in nuts and cams are essential. The rock is solid granite with the typical Yosemite texture—mostly clean but with occasional lichen patches that command vigilance.

Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon showcases its classic wildness here: the granite rises with an unyielding presence, while the river’s roar drifts through the canyon reminding you that nature controls the rhythm. The climb’s compact length is deceptive—the intensity packed into its vertical stretch guarantees a memorable challenge. Whether you lead or top-rope, Highway Star offers a raw, unadorned taste of Yosemite’s wild trad spirit, perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills with a side of logistical ease.

Local climbers recommend starting early in the day to avoid the peak heat, and to bring sturdy shoes with sticky rubber for the crumbly sections around the flake. Stay hydrated and scout your placements carefully—the route’s crux demands both physical and mental preparedness. The walk-off left is straightforward, yet loose rock requires attention near the descent trail. All told, Highway Star is an essential stop for trad climbers passing through Yosemite, packing a punch that belies its modest length.

Climber Safety

Protection near the triangular flake at the start is sparse and requires careful placements to avoid long falls. The walk-off route demands vigilance for loose rock, especially near the descent trail. Be mindful of the roof section as falls there could result in pendulum swings onto rough granite edges.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on this south-facing wall.

Bring sticky-soled shoes for better friction on the triangular flake and splitter cracks.

If leading isn’t on the cards, rig a top-rope from the tree at the top by scrambling left from the base.

Use a directional anchor for top-roping the 10b variation to minimize pendulum swings.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating is well-earned with a distinct crux roof move that demands power and technique. Compared to other Yosemite crack climbs, Highway Star feels slightly stiff due to the compactness and paucity of rests. The finger crack provides classic splitter jams that require solid hand and finger strength, making this grade approachable yet challenging for intermediate trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

A single rack up to 3" cams with emphasis on extra 2" (gold Camalots) is necessary to protect the route, especially around the finger crack. Be prepared for sparse pro placements at the start.

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Tags

finger crack
roof crux
5.10a
single pitch
Yosemite trad
short approach
tree belay
technical crack