"Highway Robbers is a focused 60-foot trad climb on Expedited Buttress that challenges you with delicate jams and a sharp bulge crux. This classic route in Gunnison offers technical movement balanced with spectacular views, perfect for climbers honing trad skills."
Highway Robbers is a crisp, single-pitch trad climb that stakes its claim on the left flank of Expedited Buttress, a rugged wall overlooking the vibrant Spring Creek corridor in Gunnison, Colorado. The route traces a steadily rising dihedral, inviting climbers into a play of jams and stems that test technique more than raw strength. Starting with 30 feet of chimney-like movement, you engage with thin cracks that demand precise hand and foot placements before meeting the small bulge—the route’s defining crux. Here, power and balance collide in a brief, thoughtful sequence that challenges you to finesse your way past the obstacle.
Beyond the crux, the climb opens into a spacious open-book dihedral, its left wall hanging out slightly, adding a sense of exposure and gravity to the final moves. You have two options here: either pull straight over the concluding roof using the crack system or veer right along the arete, skirting around the bulge until reaching a well-anchored tree that marks the top. The climb doesn’t just test your ability to read subtle holds and placements; it also rewards you with sweeping views across the Gunnison basin and a quiet connection to the towering cliffs that characterize this area.
Though modest in length at 60 feet, Highway Robbers delivers an efficient blend of technique and adventure, perfect for trad climbers looking to sharpen jams and delicate moves on Colorado limestone. Protection is straightforward—small cams and stoppers up to a BD #1 fit the cracks snugly, lending confidence without the hassle of large, unwieldy gear. Anchors aren’t fixed on bolts; instead, the climb ends at a sturdy tree, which you’ll use for belay and descent. A 70-meter rope is recommended to ensure a safe rappel, as a 60-meter might fall short on the return.
Approach-wise, the trail to Expedited Buttress is accessible by a moderate hike through Spring Creek’s forested slopes. The terrain here balances scrub oak and juniper with occasional bursts of wildflowers, providing shade and relief from the high alpine sun in summer. Early morning attempts are ideal to avoid heat build-up on the rock, especially during Colorado’s warmer months. Winter ascents require thoughtful attention to cold and potential ice in the cracks.
For climbers eager to experience a classic, low-angle dihedral with direct exposure and a technical crux, Highway Robbers offers a rewarding challenge framed by expansive Gunnison landscapes. Plan your gear carefully, manage your timing, and prepare for a climb where nature’s angle will test your craft while nature’s grand views hold your gaze.
Protection is limited to smaller cams and stoppers—avoid relying on questionable gear placements. Anchors are natural (tree-based), so inspect stability before committing to the rappel. Be cautious of loose rock near the bulge area.
Start your climb early to avoid afternoon heat on the rock.
Approach via the Spring Creek trailhead; expect moderate hiking with some brush.
Double-check your gear—small cams and stoppers only as cracks are thin.
Use a 70-meter rope to ensure a safe rappel from the tree anchor.
Carry an assortment of small cams and stoppers—nothing larger than a BD #1 is necessary. There are no fixed anchors; plan to belay and rappel off a sturdy tree at the top. A 70-meter rope is preferred for the descent.
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