"High Tops offers a demanding 5.10a R trad climb on the Pyramid’s main face in Joshua Tree National Park. Its challenging undercling and technical traverses reward skilled climbers with desert views and a taste of classic granite grit."
Tucked within the stark and sun-beaten expanses of Joshua Tree National Park, High Tops offers a striking trad climbing experience that commands attention from the moment you step up to its towering dihedral. This climb traces the clean line of a prominent corner on the Pyramid's main face. The initial moves pull you into an undercling that demands precise body tension—there's no room for fumbling here. From that balanced hold, carefully traverse left beneath a roof, testing your footwork as you edge toward lightly etched cracks peppering the face above. The rock’s coarse texture grips your fingertips firmly, while the sun-carved granite radiates warmth, reminding you of the park’s desert heart.
Moving beyond this delicate traverse, the route shifts into a more straightforward rhythm: ascending and angling right to a trustworthy crack system that offers solid jamming opportunities. This section provides a welcome break and allows a steady pace before the pitch demands more commitment. The fun doesn’t stop, though—the crack’s upper face invites a bold lead out left, where protection thins and the exposure sharpens. Here, you’ll find a hanging belay station secured near Todd Swain’s classic 5.11 face route, signaling a moment to catch your breath and admire the vast desert panorama stretching below.
This single-pitch climb, roughly 120 feet in length, mixes technical moves with desert grit and sun-drenched rock that makes for a testing but rewarding outing. The 5.10a R rating underlines the seriousness of the underprotected section, so experienced leadership and confident gear placement are paramount. Packing a standard rack including up to 3-inch pieces will set you up well for the protected cracks, but a steady nerve remains just as critical here as your gear.
Timing your ascent to early morning or late afternoon can mean cooler rock and shade on the face, avoiding the brutal midday sun that can sap energy quickly. The approach through Indian Cove and Rattlesnake Canyon is moderate, offering a chance to tune your senses to the desert’s stillness as you move methodically toward the base of the Pyramid. While the climb is short, it demands attention to detail and respect for its desert setting—hydration, sun protection, and careful route finding remain essential.
High Tops invites trad climbers who crave a pure granite experience mixed with classic Joshua Tree exposure and technical grit. It’s a route that connects you directly to the rawness of the desert, the challenge of precise body control, and the satisfaction of executing delicate undercling moves on iconic stone. Whether you’re ticking off the park’s signature corners or hunting a memorable classic, High Tops stands ready to test your edge with clear, concise beta and enduring desert character.
Watch out for the unprotected sections just above the roof traverse and the lead out left on the crack face; these areas expose you to potential long falls. The hanging belay anchors are secure but double-check all your gear. Desert heat and loose rock on the approach trail can add risk—prepare accordingly.
Begin the climb early in the day to avoid the intense desert heat on the rock face.
Hydrate thoroughly before the approach—water sources in Joshua Tree are scarce.
Double-check your rack for medium to large cams, especially around 2-3 inches for optimal protection.
Scout the hanging belay spot carefully to ensure the anchors are secure before committing to rappel.
Carry a standard trad rack up to 3-inch pieces to protect the varied cracks. The line features some thin placements during the balanced undercling and leftward lead out above the main crack—solid gear placement skills are essential.
Upload your photos of High Tops (Cheops) and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.