HomeClimbingHigh Plains Drifter

High Plains Drifter: A Compact Trad Climb on the Slabs of Holcomb Valley

Big Bear Lake, California United States
trad
thin crack
slab
short pitch
granite
technical
chain anchor
Southern California
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
High Plains Drifter
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"High Plains Drifter blends technical thin crack and smooth face climbing on a tidy 50-foot slab in Holcomb Valley. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a short but challenging pitch with reliable protection and a rewarding finish."

High Plains Drifter: A Compact Trad Climb on the Slabs of Holcomb Valley

High Plains Drifter offers a focused brew of technical cracks and confident face climbing tucked on the smooth slabs of Holcomb Valley’s Central Pinnacles. This single-pitch route, stretching roughly 50 feet, challenges climbers with a right-slanting thin crack that demands precision and a steady hand before giving way to a series of clean, positive face holds. The route begins on a gently angled slab, where friction and balance set the tone. Moving upward, the climb transitions into a slender crack that tests your gear placements and finger strength. As the crack fades, the climb opens into enjoyable face moves on broad, reliable holds, rewarding effort with a secure chain anchor to finish. Those familiar with traditional climbs will appreciate the straightforward yet engaging nature that pairs technical skills with practical simplicity.

The setting among the granite pinnacles north of Big Bear Lake lends the climb a rugged character, with clear blue skies overhead and the dry mountain air carrying the faint scent of pine. Despite being a shorter route, High Plains Drifter’s blend of crack and face demands attentive footwork and good gear judgment, making it a solid choice for trad climbers looking to sharpen their technique without committing to lengthy ascents.

For planning, climbers should bring standard trad rack sizes up to 1.5 inches and expect to clip two bolts along the way. The rock generally holds well, but some sections of slab require mindful foot placements to maintain security. The approach is straightforward with clear trails leading to the base, making it accessible yet rewarding for those keen to escape the busier routes around Big Bear. This climb is best tackled mornings or late afternoons when the sun angle softens the heat on the slabs, ensuring a comfortable grip and less exposure to midday glare.

Whether you’re refining your crack skills or savoring a tight, technical pitch in the Southern California mountains, High Plains Drifter brings a direct and engaging experience for trad climbers seeking a well-protected, manageable challenge with enough complexity to keep things interesting. Remember to check weather conditions ahead, pack plenty of water, and wear shoes with solid edging for best performance on the slab sections. With careful preparation, this climb can be a memorable part of any day spent exploring Holcomb Valley’s rewarding granite faces.

Climber Safety

The slab sections demand careful foot placements as the angle can amplify the difficulty of slips. Although protection is reliable, some placements in the thin crack require attention to detail to avoid gear pull. Approach with caution during the hotter months to reduce risk of heat exhaustion and ensure solid footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun on the slab sections which can get slippery with heat.

Wear shoes with excellent edging for confident movement on the smooth granite.

Hydrate well before the climb; water sources are scarce near the base.

Check your gear carefully to ensure you have small to medium cams and nuts to protect the crack.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, High Plains Drifter offers a crux at the thin crack section that requires precise finger jams and solid footwork. While the rating is fair for its length, the shift from crack to face climbing adds a layer of complexity that tests a climber’s versatility. The grade feels true to style and sits well alongside other trad routes in Holcomb Valley, offering a measured challenge without overstating its difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring a traditional rack sized up to 1.5 inches to protect the thin right-slanting crack. Use the two bolts along the slab for additional security before clipping the chain anchors at the top.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of High Plains Drifter and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
thin crack
slab
short pitch
granite
technical
chain anchor
Southern California