"High Plains Drifter blends technical thin crack and smooth face climbing on a tidy 50-foot slab in Holcomb Valley. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a short but challenging pitch with reliable protection and a rewarding finish."
High Plains Drifter offers a focused brew of technical cracks and confident face climbing tucked on the smooth slabs of Holcomb Valley’s Central Pinnacles. This single-pitch route, stretching roughly 50 feet, challenges climbers with a right-slanting thin crack that demands precision and a steady hand before giving way to a series of clean, positive face holds. The route begins on a gently angled slab, where friction and balance set the tone. Moving upward, the climb transitions into a slender crack that tests your gear placements and finger strength. As the crack fades, the climb opens into enjoyable face moves on broad, reliable holds, rewarding effort with a secure chain anchor to finish. Those familiar with traditional climbs will appreciate the straightforward yet engaging nature that pairs technical skills with practical simplicity.
The setting among the granite pinnacles north of Big Bear Lake lends the climb a rugged character, with clear blue skies overhead and the dry mountain air carrying the faint scent of pine. Despite being a shorter route, High Plains Drifter’s blend of crack and face demands attentive footwork and good gear judgment, making it a solid choice for trad climbers looking to sharpen their technique without committing to lengthy ascents.
For planning, climbers should bring standard trad rack sizes up to 1.5 inches and expect to clip two bolts along the way. The rock generally holds well, but some sections of slab require mindful foot placements to maintain security. The approach is straightforward with clear trails leading to the base, making it accessible yet rewarding for those keen to escape the busier routes around Big Bear. This climb is best tackled mornings or late afternoons when the sun angle softens the heat on the slabs, ensuring a comfortable grip and less exposure to midday glare.
Whether you’re refining your crack skills or savoring a tight, technical pitch in the Southern California mountains, High Plains Drifter brings a direct and engaging experience for trad climbers seeking a well-protected, manageable challenge with enough complexity to keep things interesting. Remember to check weather conditions ahead, pack plenty of water, and wear shoes with solid edging for best performance on the slab sections. With careful preparation, this climb can be a memorable part of any day spent exploring Holcomb Valley’s rewarding granite faces.
The slab sections demand careful foot placements as the angle can amplify the difficulty of slips. Although protection is reliable, some placements in the thin crack require attention to detail to avoid gear pull. Approach with caution during the hotter months to reduce risk of heat exhaustion and ensure solid footing.
Start early to avoid the midday sun on the slab sections which can get slippery with heat.
Wear shoes with excellent edging for confident movement on the smooth granite.
Hydrate well before the climb; water sources are scarce near the base.
Check your gear carefully to ensure you have small to medium cams and nuts to protect the crack.
Bring a traditional rack sized up to 1.5 inches to protect the thin right-slanting crack. Use the two bolts along the slab for additional security before clipping the chain anchors at the top.
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