"High Noon at Clock Rock offers a focused 95-foot trad climb blending solid bolts with careful gear placements. It challenges climbers with technical slabs, bulges, and roof moves on eastern Sierra granite."
High Noon is a focused, single-pitch trad route that demands both precision and calm confidence on the eastern Sierra’s Clock Rock. The climb launches you into a distinct rhythm, starting with a careful approach to the first bolt of Rock Around The Clock before diverging straight upward. Instead of following the familiar leftward flakes, you press past bulging sections to a bolt that guards a slab sequence. This slab, featuring subtle friction moves and a right-trending crack, feels alive with tension – the rock’s texture almost urging your hands forward as you find steady placements.
Along the way, a few well-placed cams and nuts stretch your gear selection. The protection spacing requires thoughtful gear placement especially between the early bolts, rewarding the climber who prepares well. The upper plates test your endurance with technical moves that work past two more bolts, then transition through a juggy roof that offers a brief reprieve before the final plated face to the anchor.
Clock Rock’s granite sings here with a mixture of slabs and pockets that challenge balance and footwork rather than brute strength. This route is ideal for climbers comfortable with a 5.10a trad grade who appreciate a climb that mixes bolt security with the engagement of traditional placements. The 95-foot length keeps the pitch long and satisfying without becoming overwhelming.
Approaching Clock Rock involves a moderate hike through open terrain with early morning sun often warming the rock’s eastern face. Timing your climb for mid-morning to afternoon lets you avoid harsh shadows on the plates, giving better friction and visibility. Descending is straightforward—either continue on the adjacent second pitch of Rock Around The Clock or take a 30-meter rappel back to the base.
For anyone seeking a climb that blends solid sport protection and trad challenges in the Sierra Eastside, High Noon delivers a concise dose of vertical Sierra granite with enough complexity to keep you engaged from start to finish.
Gear placements between bolts can be tricky, so make sure to carry a full rack up to 0.4 cams and nuts. The slab sections require focused footwork as footing can feel marginal. The 30-meter rappel descent needs careful attention to rope management and anchor checks.
Bring a rack with cams and nuts up to 0.4 to handle tricky gear spots between bolts.
Start the climb mid-morning to catch the sun warming the eastern-facing slabs for better friction.
Plan for a 30-meter rappel descent or continue on the adjacent Rock Around The Clock pitch.
Focus on balanced foot placement during slab sections to conserve energy and maintain control.
Requires a standard trad rack with cams and nuts, focusing on smaller sizes up to 0.4 cams, plus six bolts securing key sections. Gear placements are needed between bolts, especially early on and for the upper plates.
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