"High and Dry delivers a committed 100-foot trad climb on Squamish’s North Walls, featuring a reliably dry offwidth that remains dry through wet winters. A must for wide crack lovers seeking a blend of delicate moves and steady jams in a breathtaking alpine environment."
High and Dry stakes its claim on Squamish’s famed North Walls as a one-pitch trad climb crafted for wide crack enthusiasts. From the first hold, the route challenges you to master an ever-widening offwidth that remains reliably dry even during the wettest winter spells, offering a rare, dependable escape from typical moisture-soaked climbs. The approach positions you at the right edge of Nanook’s realm, where a corner system invites you to negotiate delicate moves before settling into steadily expanding jams. The rock’s texture grips with a gritty firmness, demanding precise hand and footwork to navigate the transition from tight crack to roomier fissure.
This route measures 100 feet, providing a sustained pitch of technical offwidth climbing that blends physical engagement with a mental rhythm unique to this style. Protection calls for a single rack up to 9 inches to confidently safeguard the crux sequences nestled within the widening seam. When weather dampens lesser climbs nearby, High and Dry asserts its uniqueness by staying true to its name—offering dry rock and a reliable challenge.
Squamish’s North Walls serve as a backdrop, with towering granite faces rising sharply against an often-clouded sky. These cliffs are alive with the sharp scent of cedar and fir, the whispers of brush swaying in the mountain breeze, and distant calls from ravens that rule the aerie. While the climb demands focused attention, the surroundings reward those who pause with crisp panoramic views and the steady pulse of wilderness sounds.
Access to the route requires a straightforward approach via the established trails around The Chief, with well-worn paths guiding you efficiently to the base. The wall's east-west orientation means morning climbs catch early light on the rock, ideal for avoiding chillier afternoons or sudden weather shifts common in the region’s coastal climate.
For protection, gear placements carefully nestle in the corner’s widening crack, where larger cams arrest upward fall potential. The climb’s dry nature also limits concerns over slippery holds, making it a more predictable endeavor compared to nearby routes prone to moisture. This consistency, coupled with the climb’s bold rating of 5.9, situates High and Dry as a perfect introduction to offwidth techniques or a satisfying test for seasoned wide-crack specialists.
Descending is a simple walk-off down trail systems familiar to Squamish climbers, allowing for quick retreat or an easy stroll back to basecamp. Preparation should include sturdy footwear capable of maneuvering rocky, sometimes uneven terrain near the approach and descent zones. Hydration is key given the route’s physical demands, especially as engaging offwidth climbing leans heavily on stamina and steady breathing.
High and Dry offers more than just a climb—it extends an invitation to wrestle with granite’s raw edges in a setting where nature’s elements both test and reward. Whether pacing through the tricky corner moves or finding rhythm in the widening squeeze, the route crafts an immersive moment filled with tactile challenges and the quiet presence of one of Canada’s premier alpine climbing destinations.
Though the rock stays dry, placements in offwidth cracks can be tricky—ensure proper sizing of cams up to 9" and avoid relying solely on marginal placements. Watch for skin wear from jamming; tape or gloves are recommended. Approach trails can be rocky and slippery when wet—proceed with caution.
Approach via established trails on The Chief for a 15-20 minute hike to the base.
Start early to catch morning sun on the east-facing wall and avoid afternoon chill.
Wear gloves or tape your hands for extended offwidth jams to prevent skin abrasion.
Hydrate well and pace yourself—offwidth climbing demands steady breath and stamina.
Bring a single rack of cams up to 9 inches to protect the continuously widening offwidth, with placements that fit snugly in the corner’s expanding seam. Fixed gear is absent, so solid trad protection proficiency is essential.
Upload your photos of High and Dry and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.