"High and Dry delivers 30 feet of pocket-filled sport climbing on the south wall of Upper Gorge. Its gym-like holds demand precise moves, with a final traverse to the anchors that adds a dose of exposure and mental focus."
Set against the stark south wall of the Upper Gorge, High and Dry offers an intense slice of sport climbing that tests both technique and nerve. This single-pitch route stretches 30 feet upward, delivering a compact but memorable experience that feels more like a gym challenge removed from walls and mats. Starting on the leftmost section of bolts, the climb immediately demands precise movement to clip the first bolt — a crux that separates the tentative from the confident. The route’s face is studded with pockets and reliable holds, inviting climbers to flow through a sustained series of moves that keep your hands busy and feet scrabbling for purchase. Though physically engaging, it’s the exposure at the top that elevates the adventure. Traversing right over the final few meters to reach the two-bolt anchor requires a steady head and thoughtful footwork, as the rock narrows and the ledge space shrinks.
Protection consists of four well-spaced bolts leading to a top anchor, allowing for both lead climbers and top rope users to enjoy this steady route. The top rope setup is straightforward, accessible by navigating around the upper reach of The Gorge, making it a solid choice for climbers honing their sport techniques in a natural setting without complicated gear rigging.
The rock is clean and solid, typical of the Bowman/Emeralds area in Lake Tahoe’s famed I-80 Corridor, offering confidence in each placement and clip. The granite face reflects the dry nature of this climb; moisture rarely clings here, so it promises dependable conditions year-round. Climbers will appreciate how the route’s gym-like rhythm contrasts with the wild ambiance of the Gorge below, where the emerald river hums with quiet persistence, daring you onward.
Approaching from the trailhead involves a short hike along rugged but well-marked paths weaving through forest sculptures of pine and fir, opening to a cliff band etched in sunlight and shadow. With an average star rating of 2, High and Dry is honest about its straightforward climb style; it’s neither a polished gem nor a highlight buzzing with crowds, but a worthwhile test for anyone stepping up to sport lead climbing in this scenic stretch of California.
Ideal timing for this climb falls in late spring through early fall, when the wall basks comfortably in the afternoon sun and weather maintains clarity. Be sure to wear shoes with sticky rubber for the pockets and come prepared with a quickdraw rack suited to moderate spacing. Hydrate well before stepping onto the rock and consider bringing a chalk bag, as the dry footholds demand confident grip.
High and Dry promises a grounded, focused outing for climbers eager to sharpen sport climbing skills amid the rugged backdrop of Lake Tahoe’s Gorge. Expect an approachable yet earnest test of footwork and endurance, culminating in a neat upper traverse that’s as mentally engaging as it is physical.
Exercise caution during the final traverse to the anchors; the ledge space is narrow and the rock demands careful foot placement. Although the protection is solid, avoid rushing this exposed section.
Clip the first bolt carefully—this is the crux and requires steady balance.
Use sticky rubber shoes for better grip on the pocketed granite.
Bring a chalk bag to keep hands dry on the sustained moves.
Plan your climb for the afternoon when the wall is warmed by the sun.
Equipped with four bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor, High and Dry supports both lead climbing and top roping. Walk around the top of the Gorge to set up your top rope with ease.
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