"Hidden Pleasures is a technical single-pitch climb along a finger crack that slides diagonally across Hideaway Dome. Featuring a tricky roof with a mid-route tree and smearing challenges, this 100-foot 5.8 climb offers both engaging moves and straightforward protection just outside Lyons, Colorado."
Hidden Pleasures offers an engaging single-pitch climb set on a compelling crack system that carves diagonally across Hideaway Dome in Lyons, Colorado. The route unfolds from the lower right, following a finger-width fissure that demands more than just basic jamming skills—it challenges climbers with subtle, technical smears and a traverse that rewards thoughtful footwork and steady hands. Midway, you confront a low roof accented by a lone tree growing defiantly from the formation itself. This natural feature isn’t just an obstacle; it becomes part of the climb’s character, prompting an unorthodox move that tests balance and nerve. Whether you choose to consider the tree as part of your hold or a factor to work around, it forces a nuanced approach that separates casual attempts from smooth sends.
The rock here feels lived in but reliable, delivering solid friction with the occasional polished patch where previous climbers have shared the path. The route’s 100 feet stretch is straightforward in terms of length but packs a compact dose of technical climbing that invites both newcomers aiming to push their crack climbing and seasoned trad leaders seeking a short but satisfying problem. Protection is straightforward—standard rack sizes work well, with no surprises in bolt or piton placements, leaving the focus squarely on reading the line and maintaining controlled movement.
Access to Hideaway Dome is relatively simple for Boulder County terrain, with a brief approach that threads through open scrub and short forest sections. The surrounding area offers sweeping views of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, where the river’s current seems to dare you from below, and occasional breezes carry the fresh scent of pines. Climbers appreciate this spot for its solitude contrasted against more crowded venues nearby, providing a quiet space to focus on technique and enjoy a genuine piece of Colorado’s rugged climbing heritage.
Expect clear weather in late spring through early fall when the rock is dry and the temperature balances comfortably between warm sun and cool shade. Early starts are recommended to avoid the midday sun, especially since much of the route faces east-southeast, catching sunlight in the morning but shading in the later afternoon. Climbers should prepare with sturdy shoes suited for smearing and finger jams, plus enough hydration to weather the approach and the exertion of technical movements.
In essence, Hidden Pleasures is a modest yet memorable climb, rich with tactile challenges that belies its relaxed location. It invites a careful pace, respecting the rock and the subtle demands it makes on body and mind, all framed within a landscape that rewards effort with quiet, natural beauty.
While the rock is generally solid, care is advised around the roof and tree where holds may feel less secure. Placing protection before this section is essential, and the tree shouldn’t be over-relied upon as a stable hold. Loose rock is minimal, but test all holds carefully, especially those that look polished or weathered.
Start early to beat the morning sun and avoid heat on the southeast-facing route.
Bring climbing shoes with good smearing capability for the polished sections.
Hydrate well before and after the quick approach through open scrub and light forest.
Treat the mid-route tree as part of your climbing challenge, but test its holds carefully before committing.
A standard rack covering small to medium cams and a few nuts suits the protection needs, allowing safe placements throughout the diagonal crack and across the roof feature anchored by a tree.
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