5.9, Trad
Truckee
California ,United States
"Hidden Dragon offers a compelling finger crack climb on Donner Summit’s granite, combining technical moves with reliable gear placements. This single-pitch trad route rewards steady technique and provides a rewarding taste of Sierra Nevada climbing."
Hidden Dragon offers climbers a focused and satisfying trad line on Donner Summit’s rugged granite, perfect for those who prize technical finger cracks and hands-on protection. The climb begins with a clean, splitter finger crack that demands precise hand and footwork, drawing you upward with a tactile intensity that connects you directly to the rock’s texture. Midway, the crack transitions to a flake feature before veering left into a sharp layback corner. This section widens as you ascend, shifting the climbing style from sustained finger jams to more varied stemming and layback techniques, rewarding adaptability and smooth movement.
The route’s single 50-foot pitch sits in the I-80 Corridor, a well-known climbing nexus near Lake Tahoe. Its elevation and exposure offer crisp air and vast mountain views, grounding climbers in the Sierra’s enduring presence. The rock itself tells a story of time—solid granite with occasional patches of looser material beneath a couple of bolts placed to safeguard those sections. These bolts serve not only as protection but as markers—quiet sentinels reminding you to trust your gear and tread carefully.
Approach here is straightforward, following beaten paths from parking near the Dragon’s Nest area. The climb sees moderate traffic, enough to keep the crack clean but still preserve its raw edge. Ideal seasons span late spring through early fall, when low snow levels and stable weather create the best conditions.
For gear, a rack extending to 2-inch cams is essential, alongside a few quickdraws to clip the bolts smoothly. A chain anchor crowns the route for secure top-out belays and descent. Climbers appreciate this route for its balance of physical challenge and accessible grade—5.9—which tests technique without pushing into the harder end of the difficulty spectrum. Beginners to intermediate climbers can push their skills here, while seasoned adventurers will enjoy the straightforward, hands-on nature of the crack climbing.
Remember to wear sturdy, well-broken-in climbing shoes that support finger jamming and provide solid edging. Hydration and sun protection are key on exposed summer days, as the rock can heat quickly and offer little natural shade. The high alpine environment invites respectful pacing and awareness of weather shifts.
Hidden Dragon invites you to engage directly with the mountain, peeling back layers of stone with every move. It’s a climb that rewards focus, gear savvy, and rhythmic flow—qualities that resonate well beyond the route and leave a lasting impression on all who take it on.
Use caution near the protected sections where strands of loose rock necessitate clipping the bolts carefully. The upper layback corner requires confident weighting to avoid slips. Always double-check placements, as the granite can have occasional friable flakes.
Approach via well-marked trails from the Dragon's Nest parking area; allow 20 minutes with moderate pack load.
Wear climbing shoes suited for finger cracks and laybacks to maintain secure foot placements.
Early season can have residual snow; late spring through early fall is ideal for dry rock.
Hydrate well and apply sun protection during summer climbs—the route receives limited shade.
Bring a full trad rack up to 2-inch cams, plus quickdraws for the two bolts guarding suspect rock sections. The chain anchors make for reliable rappels or top-out belays.
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