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Here Come the Shit Hawks

Flatrock, Canada
roof crux
technical face
sharp holds
stick clip recommended
coastal climb
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Here Come the Shit Hawks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This single-pitch 5.12a sport climb on Flatrock’s Main Face challenges you with a sharp roof crux and technical face climbing. A bold route that demands precision and power, set against the rugged beauty of the Newfoundland coast."

Here Come the Shit Hawks

Here Come the Shit Hawks stands out on the Main Face of Flatrock as a test of power, precision, and nerve. This 80-foot sport climb delivers an intense encounter with sharp holds and a challenging roof crack—the kind of move that demands both commitment and technique. The route’s defining feature is a bouldery crux just off the ledge, a section that has grown fiercer after part of the ledge broke away. This shift lifts the crux into a more exposed position, slightly bumping the difficulty beyond what a six-foot climber might expect, but it still holds around 5.12a for those who fit the move. Tackling this roof requires a well-timed pull, a surge of upper-body strength balanced with precise footwork to transition to the technical face climbing that follows.

Above the crux, the route unfolds into sustained face moves peppered with sharp holds that test finger strength and careful hand placement. The rock here demands clean movement and steady breathing, as the holds become less positive and the angles more demanding. Climbing higher, the tension eases, inviting a rhythm that rewards patience and control. The full length spans 80 feet, allowing climbers to push through a single pitch of focused effort.

Protection is well-established with eight bolts across the route, capped by a secure anchor at the top. Due to the potential danger of falling directly on those first few moves, a stick clip is highly recommended to avoid serious ground falls, unless you’re confident soloing 5.12 moves. The approach brings you close to the raw, exposed nature of the Avalon Peninsula, surrounded by the fierce Atlantic winds that keep climbers alert and aware. This route is a fitting challenge for those who want a sharp, technical climb with a bite—more than a gym problem but less than the longest alpine test.

Plan your ascent during the milder months to avoid the biting cold winds that sweep this corner of Newfoundland. Sunrise or morning climbs offer the best light as the face leans into eastern exposure, warming the rock and highlighting the textured surface to read each hold more clearly. Footwear with sticky rubber and precise edging capability will make a difference here, as will stretchable gear that can handle the dynamic roof moves and tightening face crack.

Whether you’re stepping up as a strong sport climber or a seasoned visitor looking to navigate Newfoundland’s evolving routes, Here Come the Shit Hawks provides a lively, practical challenge. Expect to push your limits, stay focused on sharp hand and foot placements, and savor the unique setting high above the Atlantic coast. The climb demands respect but offers a satisfying reward: a pure, technical experience etched into a wild, open landscape.

Climber Safety

The initial bouldery roof section sits just above a diminished ledge, increasing the risk of ground fall without a stick clip. Sharp holds require cautious hand placement to avoid injury. The coastal exposure can bring sudden wind gusts—secure loose gear and be prepared for chilly conditions.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Stick clip the first bolt to avoid risky falls on the crux roof.

Climb during morning hours for optimal rock warmth and visibility.

Wear precise, sticky climbing shoes for the sharp holds.

Prepare for Atlantic winds that can chill the face, especially in shoulder seasons.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:While officially rated 5.12a, the fallen ledge has nudged the crux into a slightly more reach-dependent and exposed move, which may feel stiffer for climbers under six feet. The technical face climbing after the roof is sustained but less intense, offering a well-rounded challenge with a crux that demands solid strength and fluid technique. Compared to other local routes, this climb rewards precise beta and commitment.

Gear Requirements

Eight bolts plus a solid anchor secure the route, with a stick clip strongly advised to safely reach the crux bolt unless you are comfortable soloing 5.12 moves.

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Tags

roof crux
technical face
sharp holds
stick clip recommended
coastal climb