HomeClimbingHeavenly Ladder

Heavenly Ladder: A Classic Trad Climb in Squamish

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
single pitch
thin crack protection
morning sun
Smoke Bluffs
Squamish
British Columbia
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Heavenly Ladder
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Heavenly Ladder is a single-pitch trad climb in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs that offers finger crack climbing with solid protection and approachable length. Perfect for those seeking a precise, steady 5.9 that rewards technical control and offers beautiful valley views."

Heavenly Ladder: A Classic Trad Climb in Squamish

Heavenly Ladder offers a refreshing introduction to trad climbing in the renowned Smoke Bluffs area, presenting a single-pitch route that blends straightforward technique with a touch of adventure. From the base, the climb demands you negotiate an unusual block, awakening your senses to the solid presence of the rock under your hands and feet. The route then follows a right-hand crack that encourages steady, confident climbing before a strategic shift to a left-hand crack leads you toward the summit.

The rock is generally sound, offering an inviting texture that rewards precise foot placements and delicate jams. Expect to rely primarily on finger-sized protection, as the crack dimensions favor smaller cams and nuts. This gear requirement means packing a well-sorted standard rack tailored for thin cracks, but don’t be caught off-guard if you need to be creative in your placements. The climb’s length—about 60 feet—makes it approachable but satisfying, delivering a solid 5.9 challenge that demands focus rather than brute force.

Surrounding the route, the Smoke Bluffs unfold in a landscape where rugged granite rises sharply against a blue sky. The area is acclaimed for its accessibility and variety, providing climbers with a chance to warm up on routes like Heavenly Ladder before venturing further into the complex network of cracks, corners, and faces.

From a planning perspective, the approach is straightforward and well-marked, with a scenic 15-minute hike from the main parking lot. The trail meanders through patches of Douglas fir and pine, their needles softening the sound of your footsteps. As you climb, light filters through the sparse canopy, casting shifting patterns on the granite walls.

Timing your ascent is key; morning light bathes the route in warmth, offering ideal temperatures and dry rock, particularly in the spring and early summer months. As the day heats up, the sun angle can shift, so early starts are advised to avoid overly warm conditions, especially if you are pushing for your first lead.

Safety on Heavenly Ladder centers on solid gear placements and careful movement around the initial block, which can demand balanced footwork. The rock quality is reliable but always merits mindful scrutiny at each placement. Carrying extra finger-sized gear ensures peace of mind on the slightly delicate sections.

As you top out, take a moment to absorb the sweeping views of the valley below and the surrounding peaks punctuating the horizon. Descending is a straightforward walk-off, making Heavenly Ladder not only an excellent route to climb but also an inviting way to soak in the natural beauty of Squamish’s famed climbing landscape.

Whether you’re refining your crack technique or looking for a dependable single-pitch climb with character, Heavenly Ladder stands out for its blend of manageable challenge, solid rock, and seamless integration into one of Canada’s most celebrated climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Watch your placements closely on the starting block, as it can feel insecure if foot positioning is rushed. Also, check all gear placements diligently because smaller cams in thin cracks need precise placement to hold a fall safely.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch morning light and avoid midday heat on the granite.

Bring an extra set of finger-sized cams for backup placements.

Approach trail is about 15 minutes from parking, stay on marked paths to conserve the environment.

Check the block at the start carefully for secure footing before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The rating is a straightforward 5.9 that feels true to grade, focusing on technique over power. The initial block adds a mild crux, requiring thoughtful footwork before settling into the steady crack climbing. Compared to other Smoke Bluffs climbs, it’s slightly on the moderate side but still offers a solid challenge for climbers improving their trad skills.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack focused on finger-sized cams and nuts is essential. The route demands precise protection placements primarily in thin cracks, so bringing a well-sorted rack with plenty of smaller gear is recommended.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
thin crack protection
morning sun
Smoke Bluffs
Squamish
British Columbia